Saturday, 30 April 2016
Amontillado Callejuela 18%, Viña Callejuela
Bright amber with coppery highlights and legs.
Clean complex and fairly tight with all sorts of nuances wrapped up in an attractive package. There are distinct Sanlúcar notes of rope and salinity with remote hints of Manzanilla pasada autolysis and then lots of toasted almonds and hazelnuts and the slightest traces of caramel and raisin as the nose opens out, but always constrained by the distinct Sanlúcar character.
Nuttier and a shade sweeter than the nose but the Sanlúcar style is by no means lost. It is almost perfectly balanced between a glyceric very slightly mineral nuttiness and a gentle tangy acidity which ensures liveliness, gentle grip and terrific length. It should age very well in bottle.
Produced from the Blanco brothers' own vineyards at the Viña Callejuela in Sanlúcar, this wine is nursed from Manzanilla through to Amontillado over the course of over 12 years and the result is a classic nutty Amontillado of great character, quality and excellent value.
Price9.50 euros from Cuatrogatos