Thursday, 10 January 2019

PX Cosecha 2017 13%, Bodegas Ximénez Spínola

Clean bright almost pure amber with brassy golden highlights and some visible viscosity.
Bursting with aromas of sun dried PX though lighter than the normal version as the grapes, while very ripe, are not so intensely sun dried and there are few if any fig and date aromas making it very grapey with hints of overripe apple, peach and apricot and gently tangy with traces of esparto and some grapeskin texture. It smells fantastic and is virtually unique.
Sweet, yes, but nowhere near as sweet as normal PX and much lighter too, both in wight and alcohol. The acidity level is perfect to carry through the flavour, mitigate the sweetness and give a real freshness to the wine. The aforementioned dried fruit flavours give off some of their texture creating a gentle chewiness and there is the faintest honeyed note yet the wine is clean, fresh complex and uncloying with great length, and quite possibly a long life ahead in bottle. Delicious.
So devoted to the Pedro Ximénez grape is this bodega that it is the only grape they grow. Founded in 1729 and still in family hands - the ninth generation -  they produce a totally unique  range of naturally sweet wines of supreme quality. The idea with this wine was to conserve the freshness and fruitiness by avoiding oxidation. The grapes are hand picked but at normal harvest time and laid out on esparto mats between the vine rows. This provides some shade so the sun dehydrates them very gently, concentrating their fructose. In the shade or during the night they gain a little in tartaric acid providing freshness. Sun drying reduces the yield from 1 tonne of fresh grapes to 300 kg of pasas and from that, only 200 litres of wine. The must is fermented to 13% in French oak toneles and after fermentation they are filled to the brim and tightly sealed to prevent any oxidation and conserve freshness and fruit. They remain there until bottling. 2017 yielded 8993 x 50cl bottles sealed with a Diam cork.
22.95 per 50cl, Licores Corredera

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