Showing posts with label Vinos de Cádiz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vinos de Cádiz. Show all posts

Monday, 2 September 2019

Vino Blanco Hacienda de Doña Francisca 2018 12.5%, Viña Callejuela

Appearance
Bright, fairly pale silvery gold with golden reflections.
Nose
Fresh open country and seaside air pervades the wine with gently tangy tartaric, herbal and slightly saline aromas intermingling with the apple ones so typical of Palomino. There are even  faint floral and background earthy hint as well, making it very natural smelling and attractive.
Palate
Crisp, clean and almost crunchy apples and a lively acidity give the wine real zip, yet there is a fuller side to it too with some body and the two sides will probably merge with a little bottle age. Naturally it has the classic albariza characteristics of  dry chalky texture and a slight salinity, and overall it has real character.
Comments
This is another in the Viña Callejuela range of three single vineyard table wines, and is the only one whose grapes come from Sanlúcar itself, from the Hacienda de Doña Francisca vineyard in the pago Callejuela. The vineyard extends to 16 hectares at an altitude of 62 metres and the Guadalquivir estuary can be seen in the distance and you can feel the sea breezes which make Sanlúcar special. The wine is, lie its siblings, 100% Palomino, fermented in ex Manzanilla butts and left on lees and under flor till the following spring when it is lightly filtered and bottled at the bodega.
Price
13.50 euros, De Albariza 


Saturday, 20 July 2019

Vino Blanco Las Mercedes 2018 12%, Viña Callejuela

Appearance
Paleish bright strawy gold with golden glints.
Nose
Very young and very Palomino with plenty of the typical apple and stewed apple aromas and perhaps some traces of malic acid and pear. It is very fresh with an open-air in an orchard sort of character and some faint floral notes, but there is a little weight behind, and less of the Sanlúcar "wildness" and seaside air. It is lovely now but a year in bottle should make it show of its best.
Palate
Fresh, zesty, clean and lightly tangy with a slight chalky texture and plenty of apples. Añina wines are somewhere between the weight and style of Sanlúcar and Jerez, and this is right between the fuller Doña Francisca and the crisper Callejuela. It is very elegant with real vineyard character, precisely what the brothers were aiming for.
Comments
The pago Añina is nearer Jerez than Sanlúcar and the Las Mercedes vineyard is at 92 metres altitude, on good deep albariza with a warmer, drier climate than Callejuela, and it shows. These three wines were the brainchild of Ramiro Ibáñez, the extremely talented consultant oenologist for the Blanco brothers, to show the annual vintage variations and the key differences between the vineyards. The wines are totally natural and a little flor appears on them, but the wine is bottled before it has a chance to have much effect.
Price
13.50, De Albariza


Friday, 19 July 2019

Ojo de Gallo 2017 12.5%, José Estévez

Appearance
Bright pale strawy gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Fresh with notable minerality and plenty of Palomino apple, it has that gentle richness and elegance so typical of Macharnudo wines - emphasised a lille by lees ageing - and there is also a certain salinity. There is even the faintest honeysucle note after a while. Most attractive.
Palate
Lots of crunchy apple up front with a trace of malic acidity, then it softens off and some of that Macharnudo body comes through rounding it off nicely. There is a background trace of apple tart and custard too which almost obscures the classic chalky texture and trace salinity.
Comments
This is the third release of this excellent and successful table wine made from the firm´s own extensive vineyards in the pago Macharnudo Alto, one of the highest vineyard areas of Jerez and the farthest from the sea. The vines are around 25 years old and the must is fermented in stainless steel tanks using natural yeasts. After fermentation the wine is left on fine lees for six months before stabilisation and bottling in spring.
Price
8.20 euros, Licores Corredera

Wednesday, 19 June 2019

Mahara Sparsus Aurata 2017 11.9%, Bodega Vinifícate

Appearance
Quite deep, amber tinged strawy yellow with old gold highlights.
Nose
In many ways similar to the Mahara Liza Ramada having been made using a similar - but not the same - method, and it is from Sanlúcar so it is different. All the  intense Palomino apples are there but there is more grape and it is a shade lighter, less full-on and more elegant.  There is more maritime salinity and in place of the ginger there is a hint of herbs. Bursting with character and super interesting.
Palate
Full and fresh with a zippy tang, lots of apple, a trace of  cider and a gentle texture with just a little grip with a chalky albariza dryness, and a little more salinity than Liza Ramada. It is very natural tasting with a very long clean finish. You can really see the difference between two different vineyards, which show how important they are, and it is wonderful to see people treasuring them.
Comments
This wine comes from a small 1 hectare west facing vineyard, Viña el Vicario, in the Pago Mahina near Sanlúcar. It is made from 100%  Palomino grapes from vines of over 80 years of age which means a miniscule yield of less than 20 hl/ha - fine quality but uneconomic for most people. In fact , if it were not for people like the Gómez Lucas brothers, vineyards like this would have long since disappeared, and many have. The hand picked grapes are de-stemmed and fermented with their skins for a week before pressing and the wine completes the fermentation in amphorae where it ages on the lees for nine months before bottling. 1846 bottles produced. Sparsus Aurata is the Latin name for the gilt head sea bream (or "dorada" in Spanish).
Price
17.15 euros, Licores Corredera


Sunday, 16 June 2019

Mahara Espumoso Espátula 2017 11.9%, Bodega Vinifícate

Appearance
Light amber with golden highlights and good mousse with occasional bead.
Nose
Quite full with pronounced aromas of apple and apple skin, even a hint of cider, traces of apricot and ripe grapes, and while it is quite zippy with a stoney minerality, there is also a faint creamy quince jelly note in the background. It is most unusual but very attractive and completely natural.
Palate
There is some real character here and a degree of intensity with almost crunchy apples, a refreshing tangy acidity and a touch of apple skin texture giving just a hint of tannin thanks to fermenting on the skins. It is very dry with a slightly saline mineral tang with a long, very clean finish.
Comments
Bodega Vinifícate, or Mahara Viticultores as they are also knowm, really seem to be taking off. The Gómez Lucas brothers based in San Fernando are producing all sorts of interesting wines using interesting methods and the new wines are labelled with illustrations of local birds and fish. This is one only 420 bottles of this lovely sparkling wine made by the ancestral method by which the fermentation is completed in bottle. The Palomino grapes, which were hand picked, came from 70 year old vines in a small vineyard in the pago Mahina near Sanlúcar, the Viña del Vicario. They were de-stemmed and macerated in a fibre-glass tank for a week (hence the deeper colour) before pressing in a vertical press and left to ferment. The progress of the fermentation needs to be carefully observed so as to be able to bottle at the right moment. No sulphites were added and no filtration was done. The wine was aged in bottle for 16 months before sale. Espátula is a bird called a spoonbill in English.
Price
17.15 euros, Licores Corredera




Sunday, 9 June 2019

Vino Blanco Cañada del Taraje 2018 11.5%, Almazara del Manzanillo

Appearance
Mid to pale strawy gold with golden glints and a slight trace of residual CO which goes.
Nose
On the full side, good and ripe, perhaps a hint of extended skin contact, quite sophisticated and very faintly nutty with traces of dried or glaҫé fruit like apricot, mango and quince.  There is also a slight honeysuckle-like sweet floral note.
Palate
There is real character here; good ripeness has left a lowish level of acidity which helps bring out the flavour of the grape which has that very slight nuttiness and an almost honeyed note. Despite the grape´s comparatively low sugar levels, this example has just a trace of residual sugar, bu also just enough acidity to balance it giving an exceptionally clean, dry and reasonably long finish.
Comments
This delicious wine is produced in very small quantities (1,200 bottles) in the Cañada del Taraje vineyard in Olvera among the olive trees near Zahara de la Sierra, at the northern tip of the Sierra de Grazalema in the northeastern part of the province of Cádiz. It is made up in the hills from the organically grown Perruno grape which is indigenous to the area, and though some was allowed for Sherry in the past, it  has largely disappeared in favour of Palomino. It is a comparatively late ripener with thicker skins than some varieties and lowish sugar levels but is capable of producing good wine if yields are kept low and care is taken as it has here. Almazara is an old arab word for olive mill, and olive oil is the main business here (the excellent Oleum Viride), but it would be silly not to make wine if you can, and they also make the really good Fine Tempo (QV). No additives, filtration or any of that nonsense, just totally natural.
Price
7.90 euros, Licores Corredera



Friday, 7 June 2019

Vino Blanco Aranzá 2017 10.5%, Barrialto Viñas y Vinos

Appearance
Bright strawy gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Fresh and unmistakably Palomino with its aromas of quince and both fresh apple and stewed apple with slight traces of straw, apricot and green herbs. There is an attractive "out in the countryside near the sea" air about it and it smells very natural - which in fact it is,
Palate
Very clean and fairly crisp and tangy with all that apple flavour and a faint flavour and feel of apple skin as well. Being from Balbaina, it has a very gentle background salinity and a faintly dry chalky texture which give it a very clean finish.
Comments
This wine is made in Sanlúcar by Rafael Rodríguez Jiménez, a third generation mayeto (grower-producer) who is also affiliated to Mayetería Sanluqueña. He makes a couple of the Corta y Raspa wines and has a little bodega in the Barrio Alto of Sanlúcar. The Palomino grapes for this wine came from vines of over 50 years of age in the Viña La Palma in the pago Balbaina, where they grew on three hectares of tosca cerrada albariza soil. The wine was made the artisan way with the must being fermented in ex Manzanilla butts and the wine aged in them until bottling in April 2019 with minimum stabilisation.
Price
10.60 euros, De Albariza

Monday, 27 May 2019

Forlong Rosado 2018 14%, Bodega Forlong

Appearance
Very pale orangey pink, onion skin perhaps with very pale coppery gold highlights.
Nose
Soft, light, fresh and delicate with traces of the hallmark blackcurrant aroma of Cabernet along with hints of raspberry and strawberry sweeties, perhaps also traces of sherbet and rose petals. Lovely.
Palate
Delicate and refreshing, clean and remarkably tasty with all those fruits mentioned already and perfectly balanced acidity making it quite soft,  and extremely elegant. There is a faint saline note at the end which gives away its origins and it has good length and considerable charm.
Comments
This delightful rosado comes from Alejandro Narváez and Rocío Áspera who are based near El Puerto de Santa  María at the Finca El Olivar de Forlón on the fringes of the pago Balbaina. It was once a Sherry vineyard owned by Matthiesen Furlong, hence the name. They are always coming up with interesting, beautifully made wines, and everything is done by hand. Anyway this wine is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown, along with Merlot and some Tintilla in four hectares of vineyard planted some 50 years ago known as the Finca La Greduela near Jerez, on albariza soil which they rent and farm organically. The grapes are harvested manually, and after an extremely light pressing, mostly just by gravity, the must is fermented in a stainless steel tank at a very low temperature (15°). After fermentation the wine is transferred, lees and all, to another tank where the lees are stirred weekly over two months. The wine is then allowed to settle and is bottled with no stabilisation. Very pale rosados like this are known as "rosados de lágrima" (tear) as the juice is expelled slowly slowly from the grapes rather like tears. They are much tastier than they look.
Price
8.70 euros, Licores Corredera

Thursday, 23 May 2019

Pedro Ximénez 2017 Fermentación Lenta 14%, Ximénez Spínola

Appearance
Bright amber tinged gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Forthcoming, fresh, aromatic and interesting with attractive aromas of overripe grapes giving a slight  impression of sweetness and even a hint of botrytis, neither of which is actually present. There are notes of quince jelly, raisin, dried apricot, straw and faint oxidation which combine to produce considerable complexity in a wine with a unique identity.
Palate
While dry really, there is a faint hint of sweetness enhanced by moderate acidity yet balance is good and it has a long dry finish. There is no shortage of flavour which is mostly dried fruits, not totally unlike a dry German auslese, but with that distinct PX quince flavour and a higher strength. There is a very gentle grape skin texture and a hint of albariza chalk as well.
Comments
This is another unique, serious and delicious wine from this wonderfully idiosyncratic bodega which makes its wines only from  Pedro Ximénez. In this case the grapes are left on the vine to over-ripen for about three weeks longer than for a conventional harvest and are then they are taken to the bodega and lightly pressed. The yield, naturally, is very low, about 600 litres per ton. Once pressed, the must, along with the skins is poured into 300 litre French oak barrels, but they are not filled completely so as to allow for the daily addition of 30 litres more must. This process allows for a slow and complete fermentation which lasts all of fifteen days, but is both complicated and difficult as PX has a tendency to leave residual sugars. The wine is subjected to regular but gentle batonnage throughout its nine months of ageing on lees (interestingly the main label says 9 months yet the back label says six...) and the result is a dry but rich wine of great individuality. The 2017 vintage produced 6248 bottles which are sealed with a 2 inch Diam cork.
Price
30.00,De Albariza

Monday, 20 May 2019

Amorro Espumoso 2017 11.5%, Bodega Vinifícate (Mahara Viticultores)

Appearance
Pale strawy gold with golden highlights and a good mousse with a little bead.
Nose
Fresh with faint lingering fermentation notes, but the appley Palomino shines through. There are also very slightly floral notes of straw and green herbs and a trace of lemon candy alongside the inevitable hint of salinity, and you can detect the skin maceration. Most attractive.
Palate
Dry, clean and well rounded with fruity notes of apple and quince and a trace of fresh apricot, while the  acidity is nicely judged and that hint of salinity, which gives away its Cádiz origins, really makes it dangerously moreish and the perfect accompaniment to all sorts of tapas, especially seafood.
Comments
This very small but very enterprising  bodega established in 2011 is located in San Fernando, Cádiz, and run by two brothers, José and Miguel Gómez, who decided to make artisan wines. Miguel was once involved with Alba Viticultores. They make small, but growing quantities of wine from local grape varieties fermenting them in tanks and ageing them in tinajas (clay jars) or wide rimmed amphorae of various sizes, something which dates back to Phoenician times, and now own 2 ha in Balbaina which they farm bio-dynamically. No additives are used and everything is done by hand. This is their first sparkling wine and it is made from Palomino by the “método ancestral” by which the wine is bottled half way through fermentation which began in fibreglass tanks with 7 days of skin contact. The grapes, which were harvested by hand,  came from two vineyards in Chiclana: El Marquesado on sandy soil, and another on albariza. 900 bottles produced with no added sulphites and 16 months on lees. A sparkling rosado has also been launched among other goodies. Can´t wait!
Price
10.80 euros, Licores Corredera



Sunday, 5 May 2019

Tintilla 2017 14.5%, Peter Maurer

Appearance
Opaque young black red with a tight purple rim beginning to show a little ruby.
Nose
Full and still a little closed but it exudes fresh young black fruits like a mix of bramble, blueberry and bramble. It also exudes a youthful freshness and a gentle fresh tang showing perfectly ripe fresh fruit which is not overpowered by the oak used in maturation which comes through slowly with faintly spicy balsamic traces, but overall, it is all about fruit.
Palate
Full bodied and quite tight being young still, and with a firm structure and attractive slightly chewy texture but the tannins are not aggressive and perfectly balance with the fruit, and acidity is spot on. Everything seems to be in perfect harmony and augurs well for interesting development over the next 4 - 5 years.
Comments
This is the first release of this new wine in the impressive Peter Maurer stable and made from 100% organic Tintilla grapes which are indigenous to Cádiz. As the firm´s vineyards are not planted to Tintilla, he bought in carefully selected grapes from Bodega Forlong which is also organic. Temperature control was applied during maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks as at lower temperatures the wine ferments more slowly and retains maximum freshness. It was then aged in fine grain medium-toast oak barrels for 12 months in an environment where temperature and humidity were carefully controlled before being fined with organic egg white and contract bottled at the bodega he rents in Vejer de la Frontera.
Price
15.75, Licores Corredera


Friday, 3 May 2019

Al Tun Tun 2016 10.5%, 4 Ojos Wines

Appearance
Bright clean lemony gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Moscatel is aromatic already thanks to its higher than usual terpene content, but this is positively perfumed and super fresh with notes of white flowers, geranium, jasmine, honeysuckle. There is just a little weight there and an almost undetectable trace of Sherry in the background mixed with a trace of fresh sea air giving the wine great personality.
Palate
Fresh, perfectly balanced and tasty with that faint Sherry note appearing again giving the wine a fraction more weight and a unique character. It is clean and dry with that characteristic albariza chalky texture and a roundness from the time spent on lees. Long, clean, dry grapey finish. Lovely.
Comments
The expression "al tun tun" means "something good that has happened fortuitously or by chance" and it is the perfect name for this wine which is another dry Moscatel de Alejandría from albariza soils from the three girls at 4 Ojos Wines based in El Puerto de Santa María. The must is fermented in a stainless steel tank where it remains for a year on its fine lees. Then it is racked into an old Amontillado butt where it spends 10 months absorbing extra complexity. The quantity is tiny, but the quality is excellent and it has a delightful flavour all its own. No vintage date appears on the label but the wine is from 2016 and was bottled en rama.
Price
20.10 euros Licores Corredera



Wednesday, 24 April 2019

Vino Blanco Añina Las 40 Corta y Raspa 2017 12.5%, Rafael Rodriguez Jiménez

Appearance
Bright golden lemon yellow with golden highlights.
Nose
Fresh and fairly full and zesty with attractive aromas of apple, strewed apple, apricot and hints of pear and candy along with  faint notes of salinity from the yeast. It has the generosity, ripeness and roundness one would expect from Añina which is nearer Jerez than Sanlúcar, but is very fresh.
Palate
Very similar to the above really; just shy of crisp and well balanced with the classic dry chalky albariza texture and also that of appleskin, with some roundness and generosity coming through. It is very clean, dry and fresh with plenty of character despite minimal flor and has some potential for ageing and improving for 2 or 3 years.
Comments
Produced from 100% Palomino grapes grown in the family´s own vineyard Las Cuarenta (40) in the pago Añina, from vines of over 30 years of age, fermented and aged with minimum flor in a single butt. Rafael is a third generation "mayeto", the sanluqueño word for grower-producer and the soil of Las 40 consists of the tosca cerrada type of albariza. Being the produce of a single butt, only 600 bottles were filled.
Price
9.50 euros, Er Guerrita


Monday, 15 April 2019

Vino Tinto Taberner 2014 15.5%, Huerta de Albalá

Appearance
Opaque fading to a deep black plum skin red with a fairly tight rim and just a trace of brick.
Nose
Quite powerful, fairly intense yet fresh and complex, it is beginning to open with lots of red and black fruit like loganberry and bramble with slightly balsamic and faintly smoky notes and distinct slightly spicy French oak aromas. There is a certain richness and softness born of ripeness and you can really smell the texture.
Palate
Full bodied and well structured with tons of perfectly ripe almost chewy fruit and plenty of tannin which is reasonably ripe, and a good level of acidity keeping it fresh. Being from Cádiz it has a very gentle saline hint and also a dryness to the texture. This wine needs another 5 years to tame it to perfection, but it is lovely now, perhaps with a good steak. Good assertive stuff.
Comments
This excellent Vino de la Tierra de  Cádiz is made from estate grown Syrah grapes near Arcos de la Frontera. After selection they are crushed and fermented in 5,000 litre conical vats made from French Allier oak. After fermentation the wine is aged for 18 months in 225 litre medium toast Allier barrels in an ageing cellar below the beautiful chateau style bodega which is designed to operate by gravity. Syrah is very much a southern grape and produces very fine wines with considerable bottle ageing potential in the climate and soil of Cádiz, especially in the hands of the Taberner family whose first commercial vintage was 2006.
Price
23.90, De Albariza

Saturday, 13 April 2019

Vino Blanco Añina Casalbón Corta y Raspa 2017 12,5%, Rafael Rodríguez Jiménez

Appearance
Mid golden straw with golden highlights.
Nose
Super fresh with lots of slightly grassy apple and quince fruit, the faintest background trace of flor and a hint of glacé lemon. There is a little weight and roundness to it as well as a trace of wild flowers giving a charming feeling of being in the fresh air in an orchard or meadow.
Palate
Smooth, fresh, light and fruity with lots of apple, perhaps a hint of pear, and naturally it has that dry chalky albariza texture. Acidity is fairly moderate but gives just the right amount of tang which perfectly balances the roundness afforded by perfect ripeness.
Comments
This wine comes from another vineyard owned by the Rodríguez Jiménez family, this time Casalbón in the pago Añina which has vines approaching 30 years old (the other is Las 40). It is made in the same way as Las Cuarenta; 100% Palomino fermented and aged in a single butt with minimum flor and demonstrates the difference between the produce of two vineyards in the same pago and on the same tosca cerrada type of albariza. Rafael is the third generation and like the other mayetos affiliated to the Corta y Raspa project finds it more profitable selling wine than grapes. Like the other wines in this innovative range, yields are kept low and there are only 600 bottles.
Price
9.50 euros, Er Guerrita

Tuesday, 26 March 2019

Bodegas: Peter Maurer & Sons


This is a family wine business run by Peter Maurer, a Jerezano of German origin. A trained agronomist, he has worked for much of his life as technical director with Asaja, the agricultural association of Cádiz. With a lifelong passion for viticulture, in 2007 he bought the 4.5 hectare Viña Angelita estate which lies at 30 metres above sea level close to the Guadalquivir estuary near Lebrija with the idea of planting his own vineyards. But the soil was too salty and lacked nitrogen and organic material, so he devised ways to use rainwater to flush the salt to a nearby pond and planted cereals and legumes which were later ploughed – in to improve the soil which he farms organically.

There are all sorts of trees and shrubs like pines, oaks, olives, lavender, rosemary and more around the vineyard to provide the maximum possible diversity of flora and fauna, and there are also fruit tress like figs, apples, grenadines, medlars, almonds... In only 3 years he successfully took on the by no means inconsiderable challenge of vine growing in this salty marshland and gradually created a whole new organic ecosystem from nothing. He brought it to life. Now it sports Syrah, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Pinot Noir.



The plan from the start was to produce wine of maximum quality and he was the first to plant Pinot Noir in the area. Pinot, native to Burgundy, is accustomed to more northerly climes and higher altitudes and is a tricky grape to work with but it has acclimatised well and is producing very good wine. Green harvesting is practised to reduce quantity and improve quality and concentration in the bunches and takes place at the “envero” or when the grapes begin to change colour. This obviously gives lower yields but better wine. At harvest time the grapes are sorted and loaded into a refrigerated lorry and taken to the bodega he rents in Vejer de la Frontera where they are sorted again. Everything is done in the traditional way and with enormous respect for the environment. Production is around  10,000 bottles.



Two ranges of wines are produced: the blends which are called “De Raiz” and the monovarietals called “Peter Maurer”. The wines have won various awards at organic wine competitions:

De Raiz Blanco: 85% Palomino and 15% Pedro Ximénez (bought-in organic grapes)
De Raiz Tinto: Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, aged 1 year in French oak and 6 months in bottle
De Raiz Selección: Merlot, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir, aged 16 months in French oak
Peter Maurer Petit Verdot: 100% Petit Verdot aged in French oak for 12 months
Peter Maurer Pinot Noir: 100% Pinot Noir aged in French oak for 12 months.
Peter Maurer Tintilla: Launched in March 2017, 100% organic Tintilla aged 12 months in barrel.

Address:  Puebla de Don Fadrique, Lebrija
Website: www.maurerandsons.com
Telephone: (0034) 637 091 097

Saturday, 23 March 2019

Vino Blanco Atalaya Corta y Raspa 2017 11%, JM Harana Yuste

Appearance
Bright clean strawy gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Fresh, clean and attractive with distinct floral and herbal notes like dry scrubland with camomile and white flowers along with softly tangy fruity notes of apple, quince and yellow plum, even a suspicion of almond. There are very faint flor and mineral traces, but overall the impression is fruity and floral.
Palate
Very tasty with genuine character and lots of tangy zesty white fruits, clean, fresh and lively yet there is the faintest oxidative note adding complexity with a very gentle dry chalky texture from the albariza and a faint salinity at the very long finish.
Comments
Made by José Manuel Harana Yuste, a 5th generation grower and one of the three mayetos (growers) of the Mayetería Sanluqueña who make wine from their grapes rather than sell them for very little profit. It is 100% Palomino from a parcel in the pago Atalaya which is well exposed to the estuary and Atlantic near Sanlúcar. The wine is fermented in an ex Manzanilla butt and briefly aged in it with very little if any flor before bottling. The Corta y Raspa wines are intended to show the different vineyard characteristics, being all made the same way, and they certainly do.
Price
11 euros, Licores Corredera

Tuesday, 26 February 2019

Fine Tempo 2017 14.5%, Oleum Viride

Appearance
Dense black cherry red with a tight purple rim.
Nose
Very fresh with loads of rich ripe almost jammy black plum and cherry fruit with a gentle tang and textured with a note of grape pulp and even skin, it is riper than one would expect in the grapes´ homeland and there are faint traces of smoke and spice from the Syrah, super ripe blueberry from the Petit Verdot and a distant note of oak.
Palate
Big and quite intense with all that ripe grape texture melded with some chalkiness yet the tannins are by no means excessive and there is enough acidity to keep things fresh. So it is well structured but very smooth and there is just so much fruit, super ripe yet super fresh and almost - but not - sweet; the wine is still very young but well balanced so will develop well in bottle for the next 3 or 4 years.
Comments
This very attractive wine comes from the northern tip of the Sierra de Cádiz and is produced on an estate called Finca Haza las Lajas in natural parkland near Zahara. The estate, which is farmed organically, produces superb olive oil and in fact the wine is more of a secondary product and produced on a comparatively small scale. It is very good however, and is only sold in good years. The vineyard extends to only 2.3 hectares on a sandy chalky slope planted to Syrah and Petit Verdot, while the bodega is in a cave which accommodates a few barrels, all of different woods and different ages. Thus, every year will turn out a dozen or so different wines, aged for a few months, and the best are selected and blended for sale and bottled unfiltered. Annual production is usually less than 3,000 bottles. The business dates back to 2004 with the vines being planted then and now they are giving of their best.
Price
16 euros Licores Corredera

Tuesday, 19 February 2019

Pandorga PX 2017, 8%, Bodegas Cota 45

Appearance
Mahogany tinged amber fading to amber with copper/old gold highlights, viscous.
Nose
Delightful! Intensely aromatic, rich, super complex and charming with totally natural aromas of overripe grapes and the texture of their pulp with notes of raisin, quince jelly, tarte tatin, dried apricots, orange blossom honey, esparto and lots more, it really gives so much.
Palate
Despite the sweetness it is very fresh and clean, helped by the perfect level of acidity, in fact it is mouthwatering! The texture is such that you can almost chew those raisins and apricots and as you let it lie on the palate loads of subtle flavours keep pouring out and it just goes on and on.
Comments
This exquisite PX is made by Ramiro Ibáñez from grapes grown in the Viña La Panesa in the pago Carrascal which, with its barajuela and tosca cerrada forms of albariza, allows perfect sugar concentration in the grapes. Picking was later than for the normal harvest giving a degree of overripeness and the hand picked bunches were laid out to dry in the sun for 10 days, less than for normal PX, and reducing their weight to a half. Again unlike normal PX, the must was fermented in butt rather than being fortified, reaching a natural strength of 8%. It then aged for about a year in the same American oak butt before bottling. So this is a 100% naturally sweet wine which reflects the characteristics of the vineyard, grape variety and vintage. The word Pandorga is sanluqueño for kite.
Price
31.15 per 50cl bottle, Licores Corredera



Tuesday, 12 February 2019

Fino El Aljibe Saca 1/18 15%, Bodegas Poniente

Appearance
Slightly brass tinged gold with golden highlights.
Nose
Very Jerez, fairly full, ripe and round, and complex with nicely homogenised mature yet fresh and relaxed notes of almond, straw or perhaps esparto, traces of dry herbs, and sour bread dough while the flor is fairly muted and there is the very faintest note of oxidation. Very attractive.
Palate
Fresh, clean and quite serious with some almondy acetaldehyde and a hint of flor bitterness up front and full bodied then it opens and rounds out. It has a classic chalky albariza texture making it feel good and dry while the flavour lingers on and on. Beautiful balance and very sophisticated.
Comments
This lovely Fino comes from the first release (also Amontillado VORS and Oloroso VORS), bottled in May, from a new bodega: Bodegas Poniente. It is the brainchild of oenologist Alberto Orte who is a partner in Compañia de Vinos del Atlantico which makes wine all over Spain, including Cádiz, and the US importer Olé Imports. He began by buying carefully selected old wines to establish small soleras and feeds the Fino solera with mosto from his three small parcels of vines in the pago Añina: El Aljibe, San Cristobal and San José. The wine has an average age of eight years and comes in a heavy Jerezana bottle embossed with the bodega name. In case you are wondering, an aljibe is a form of well.
Price
37.15, Licores Corredera