Wednesday, 30 January 2019

La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada 83 Bota No 16.5%, Equipo Navazos

Deep bright gold, almost pure amber with old gold highlights.
Beautiful, full, deep and complex, this is almost Amontillado but not just quite. It is at a wonderful tipping-point stage where it has distinct light and charming Amo notes of hazelnut and almost caramel-like gentle oxidation yet still has some fresh zippy Manzanilla undertones as well as slightly buttery notes of cabezuela, faint traces of straw, flor and salinity. It is in fantastic condition, super fresh, and is an absolute treasure.
Fresh and clean with incredible depth of flavour and complexity. It is lighter than an Amontillado and still has some of that tangy Manzanilla bite with a dry, gently saline bitter edge, but it is fuller, rounder and more concentrated thanks to the beautifully controlled oxidation and an extra 1.5% alcohol which is acquired naturally. The finish is fairly light but packed with lingering flavour. This is an outstanding wine, virtually unique, and shows just why Sherry is the best wine in the world.
This stunning wine comes from the La Guita bodegas in the Calle Misericordia. Here there is a small solera of 15 very special butts which have reached the very limit of survival of the flor and which are filled almost completely to preserve what remains of it against the oxidation which is creeping in, since only occasional sacas and rocíos are done. Technically the wine is bordering on Manzanilla Amontillada meaning it is very close to Amontillado in style but has not been re-fortified and still has many Manzanilla characteristics. Since the old term Manzanilla Amontillada is no longer permitted in the regulations, the wine has to be labelled Manzanilla Pasada, and it is very Pasada, almost at the limit of being allowed to be called Manzanilla. It has an average age of around 14 years and was selected from just one of the 15 butts so availability is scarce with just 900 half litre bottles released. It is not cheap at 1 euro per centilitre, but it is worth every céntimo.
50 euros per 50cl, Er Guerrita


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