Monday, 30 July 2018

Espumoso Fugaz 2017 12.5%, Bodega Muchada-Leclapart

Slightly hazy mid strawy gold with golden glints and a very gentle mousse.
Fresh and appealing with notes of orchard fruit like apple and apricot along with hints of flowers with a certain natural rawness underneath of pure Palomino and a faint salty minerality. It smells a little like mosto only more sophisticated than some and very ripe with a trace of sweetness.
Despite fairly low acidity and that faint hint of sweetness there is a modicum of crispness coming mainly from the fizz (carbonic acid). There is a lot of flavour of ripe apples, possibly pears and quince jelly which is offset by a slightly salty feel, so it starts with a hint of sweetness but finishes dry with a slightly chalky texture. It is quite unusual, but is not lacking charm, or length.
One might say this super interesting wine is a sparkling wine bottled en rama: without filtration, yes, but without disgorging either, so the lees remain in the wine which may be unsightly but they are adding to the flavour all the time till you drink it. I kept the bottle chilled for nearly two weeks and it was still cloudy, but that just isn't a problem. The wine is best described as half-sparkling, having presumably been bottled half way through the fermentation with no licor de tiraje or dosage used: the "ancestral method". With this process the timing of bottling must be very carefully judged, so it is as well that David Leclepart is a Champagne producer, although this process is not used in Champagne. Personally I feel the wine could be drier if, as they state, they want to express the vineyard character, but it is nonetheless very attractive, and I found myself half way through the bottle just writing this. The word "fugaz" means "fleeting or momentary", perhaps referring to the bubbles, but the wine leaves a more lasting impression. Anyway, it is only the first release so who knows what we have in store?!
27.30, Licores Corredera

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