Friday, 13 July 2018

Manzanilla Pasada La Gallarda en rama 15%, Bodegas Covisan

Bright mid gold with golden highlights.
Very fresh and at first on the light side but it grows as it opens out and there are some gentle buttery briny hints along with some fresh herbs including camomile and of course some gently bitter flor and the faintest trace of oxidation. It is a very attractive wine with lots of gentle complexities, all nicely balanced and well integrated.
Fairly crisp and very clean and fresh yet it is a bit more serious than first appears with a noticeable minerality and salinity and traces of buttery cabezuela and flor bitterness showing through. It has a slightly chalky texture and a relaxed complexity with a good feel and length. It starts by refreshing the palate and then leaves a long, more complex aftertaste. Good.
Gallarda means elegant, fine, dashing, which suits this wine, though in fact it is the name of the vineyard the grapes came from. It comes from the cooperative COVISAN in Sanlúcar, established in 1968. The brand was introduced recently to respond to the pasada en rama fashion and to celebrate the coop's 50th anniversary. The wine has over eight years solera age and only 1,000 bottles were released en rama. There used to be a Manzanilla Amontillada Gallarda many years ago, but they are not related as the other pre-dated the establishment of the coop.
6 euros per 50cl  ex bodega

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