Appearance
Burnished antique mahogany fading through amber to a trace of green at the rim.
Nose
Forthcoming and fragrant, textbook Amontillado and more; fresh and crisp with that enticing aroma of toasted nuts and a trace of almost caramel sweetness, notes of fine quality oak - even exotic woods and a faint hint of linseed oil and resin - and none of it spoiled by excess alcohol, which is modest for its age of over 30 years. Enough tartaric/volatile acidity to give it the necessary bite.
Palate
On the full side at the start but opens out into an excellent, supremely elegant, dry, nutty characterful wine. Gently crisp acidity provides freshness and poise unhindered by tannin and balances beautifully with the glycerol and nuts. This is an outstandingly stylish Amontillado with amazing length.
Comments
The bodega
dates back to the end of the XIX century and acquired its name when bought by
Manuel Gil Luque in 1912. Shortly before it was taken over by La
Guita in 1984, Gil Luque bought some very old soleras from Fernando Carrasco
Sagastizábal, which may have belonged to Tomás Geraldino Croquer (the Irishman Thomas Fitzgerald) whose bodega
was established in 1840. In 2007 La Guita was bought by Grupo Estévez, and the
De Bandera wines have all but disappeared from the market, though the soleras
are still looked after. The brand name De Bandera translates as flagship (not in the naval sense) and this wine certainly is. It is sealed with a stopper cork smothered in wax. I was rather lucky to get hold of this slice of
history.
Price
80 euros, Er Guerrita
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