Brandy 1850 Solera Reserva 38%, Valdespino

Appearance

Bright chestnut to mahogany with coppery highlights fading to amber.
Nose
Clean and expressive with hints of aguardiente amongst the aromas of holandas, as one would expect. It seems quite dry without any added sweetness and there are gentle wood notes with hints of toasted nuts and Oloroso.
Palate
The palate is a bit more generous with a gentle and probably natural sweetness, traces of caramel, nuts and Sherry with an attractive spicy hint balanced by a touch of dried fruit. Long.
Comments
Since I can't find much information about this brandy, I'm assuming it comes from a solera which dates back to 1850. It is certainly possible. It is obviously a fairly young brandy, and is at the entry level, at least by Valdespino's high standards, and a very decent brandy it is too. It used to be sold with an average age of 10 years solera age but probably has an average of around 3 to 5 years now.
Price
14,90 euros, De Albariza

Harvesting at Grupo Estévez

Times have changed. Hundreds of people - mostly women, as the men were working in construction during the better years – used to form teams of pickers and arrived at the vineyards at dawn armed with knives or clippers. It was a long, hard job with pauses only to eat. Now the machines have taken over and there is barely a trace of the harvesting teams of old, who are now only needed in vineyards with difficult access for the machines or which contain old vines which have not been planted in a suitable way for machine harvesting.  This requires the rows of vines to be spaced to allow the passage of the machine and the vines to be trained on trellises at a certain height. The timetable has been reversed with the machines starting at ten at night and finishing at seven in the morning.

When darkness falls and while most people are sleeping the machines get to work, equipped with powerful headlights, cameras and various sensors so every detail of the ground is visible. Working at night has several advantages. It is better for the machines and their drivers to work at 22° than at 37° and the lower nocturnal temperature delays oxidation of the grapes or even premature fermentation. In the early days of machine harvesting much damage was caused to the vines which shortened their lifespan, but technology has moved on and machines are now more efficient and much faster than people.

Harvesting with Jerez in the background (foto:Manuel Aranda/diariodejerez)

Grupo Estévez is using a total of nine machines to cover their nearly 800 hectares of vineyard. Each one is different and adjusted for different vineyards but they function in much the same way. On the upper part there are two hoppers which collect the grapes, while on the lower part vibrating devices shake the grapes off the vine and collect them on a tray fitted with an elevator which takes them to the hoppers. There are powerful fans which blow away any dust, twigs or leaves. The process is fast and efficient but with all the shaking there can be a little loss of juice, and this calls for equally efficient transport to get the grapes to the bodega as quickly as possible. 80% of the company’s grapes are now harvested by machine.

Experts agree that no two harvests are the same; all sorts of factors affect the quality of the grapes, be they related to the climate, weather or environmental conditions. This year they look very good, and if they look good they usually are good. This year Estévez is predicting a 20-25% higher yield than last year, and of better quality. Eduardo Ojeda, the firm’s technical director reckons that the grapes are at about 12-12.5° Beaumé, almost two degrees higher than the regulatory minimum of 10.5°, which will of course require less fortifying spirit.

According to the Consejo Regulador, the harvest is inherently about logistics in which the efficiency of organisation will have both technical and financial consequences. In terms of costs machines are cheaper. Each one does the job of 100 pickers, and other processes are increasingly mechanised. In fact Estévez is only using 40 people for the harvest including truck drivers, machine operators and foremen. It requires only three people to maintain and operate each machine, taking turns during the working night, after which they need to degrease, disinfect and clean the machine ready for the next job. Since they cost 116,000 – 200,000 euros, maintenance of the machines is vital. They are hired, and the price is calculated in function of the area of land they will cover and the weight of grapes they will collect. Meanwhile the hand picking will start at the beginning of next week.

Amontillado de Bandera VORS 18.5%, M Gil Luque

Appearance

Burnished antique mahogany fading through amber to a trace of green at the rim.

Nose

Forthcoming and fragrant, textbook Amontillado and more; fresh and crisp with that enticing aroma of toasted nuts and a trace of almost caramel sweetness, notes of fine quality oak - even exotic woods and a faint hint of linseed oil and resin -  and none of it spoiled by excess alcohol, which is modest for its age of over 30 years. Enough tartaric/volatile acidity to give it the necessary bite.

Palate

On the full side at the start but opens out into an excellent, supremely elegant, dry, nutty characterful wine. Gently crisp acidity provides freshness and poise unhindered by tannin and balances beautifully with the glycerol and nuts. This is an outstandingly stylish Amontillado with amazing length.

Comments

The bodega dates back to the end of the XIX century and acquired its name when bought by Manuel Gil Luque in 1912. Shortly before it was taken over by La Guita in 1984, Gil Luque bought some very old soleras from Fernando Carrasco Sagastizábal, which may have belonged to Tomás Geraldino Croquer (the Irishman Thomas Fitzgerald) whose bodega was established in 1840. In 2007 La Guita was bought by Grupo Estévez, and the De Bandera wines have all but disappeared from the market, though the soleras are still looked after. The brand name De Bandera translates as flagship (not in the naval sense) and this wine certainly is. It is sealed with a stopper cork smothered in wax. I was rather lucky to get hold of this slice of history.

Price

80 euros, Er Guerrita

12.7.17 New Look for Marqués del Real Tesoro

Grupo Estévez is re-launching the Marqués del Real Tesoro Range with very smart new slightly tapered bottles which more resemble wine bottles, and new labels which give the wines a more contemporary and more upmarket look. There have been one or two other changes too. The Amontillado del Príncipe and the Oloroso Almirante, have always been over 15 years old, but now bear the official Consejo Regulador seal of approval. These wines are of exceptional quality. Another change is that two brand names from the past have been revived: La Capitana for the Cream Sherry and Eminencia for the Pedro Ximénez, both of which are around 10 years old. There is no change to the Fino Tio Mateo.

The title Marqués del Real Tesoro was awarded to Don Joaquín Villena, a lieutenant general of the Spanish Navy, by King Carlos III in 1760 in gratitude for defending his ship from pirates by melting down his own silver to make ammunition and protecting the King’s treasure. In 1897 his grandson established the bodega which has belonged to Grupo Estévez since 1989.

29.5.17 New Launches from Grupo Estévez

The superb Valdespino Fino Inocente, from a single vineyard and fermented in butt, is now available in a limited edition of 600 numbered magnums. This reflects a bit of a trend in the Sherry world and it is a very welcome one, as one now has the opportunity to lay down wines in magnums, the ideal size for extended bottle ageing, for five years or even much more. Inocente is already bottled at ten years old, but could easily develop considerably more complexity. The spring 2017 release of Manzanilla en rama Deliciosa is also now available, while alongside the Sherries comes the second vintage of the also single vineyard Ojo de Gallo. This Palomino fino table wine was a huge success and the 2015 sold out very quickly.

20.8.16 Estévez Invests in Equipment; Barbadillo Begins harvest

Grupo Estévez has invested 1.5 million euros in state of the art equipment to improve production processes in the bodega. The number of self-emptying tanks and pneumatic presses has been increased while the fermentation plant has been re-designed and equipped with the latest software technology to better control fermentation allowing an increased capacity of 7,000 butts.

The firm, which comprises Valdespino, Marqués del Real Tesoro and La Guita, owns 800 hectares of vineyard, 12% of all DO vineyards, making it the largest grower in the Sherry zone – and the largest in Andalucía. All this demonstrates the importance the firm attaches to the vineyard as a fundamental part of its philosophy of highlighting the origin and singularity of the land which is unique in the world. Estévez is the only bodega in the area to use raw materials which are 100% local, those being the grapes and the fortification alcohol, and the firm says that this is helping to achieve a sustainable agro-alimentary chain in which the vineyard is perfectly integrated and which, unlike other vineyards in the area, is profitable, and helping to improve the image of Sherry.

New fermentation tanks at Estevez (foto:diariodejerez)

Estévez says that this investment not only increases the daily capacity for grape reception, but also offers the opportunity to start the process of traceability from vineyard to wine by classifying the mostos by their individual vineyard and improving grape selection. The health and sugar content of the grapes are key parameters for their destiny and the price paid if they are bought in. New paving has also been installed to improve hygiene at the plant. “This technological development is in response to our exhaustive and demanding parameters of control to produce wines of exceptional quality, the benchmark of Sherry.

With reference to the harvest, they are expecting a harvest of very good quality but with smaller bunches than last year with each grape weighing slightly less. This, combined with the losses due to mildew in Sanlúcar and Trebujena in spring, will produce a total harvest about 10% down on that of last year.

Bodegas Barbadillo has begun the harvest and they foresee it finishing on 9^th September. Thy say the quality is excellent with potential alcohol readings of 11.5ᴼ-12ᴼ, and are hoping the temperatures will relent and allow a normal ripening. The Barbadillo vineyards, which extend to 500 hectares, make the firm the second largest vineyard owner in the area, and they were thankfully spared the ravages of the mildew outbreak in spring.

Of the 11 million kilos they hope to pick, some 2½ million will come from their own vineyards, Santa Lucía and Gibalbín, while the rest will be bought in from 35 growers on continuing contracts in the best vineyards. The harvest is being collected both by hand and by machine. Mechanical harvesting takes place during the night and early morning, while hand picking is done in the morning. This way the grapes arrive cooler and more controllable, and it is more comfortable for the workers.

Chardonnay and Palomino grapes for the firm’s sparkling Beta Brut were picked at the end of July as well as the Sauvignon Blanc for Blanco de Blancos and Moscatel for the semi sparkling Vi. Merlot will be picked starting on Monday and the other red varieties, Tempranillo, Tintilla, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot will soon follow.

1.7.16 Beltrán Domecq Re-elected Consejo President; Estévez Launches Table Wine

After the Consejo elections on the 17^th June all those elected were sworn in at a plenary meeting today. Beltrán Domecq continues as president and his new vice president is Salvador Espinosa, president of the cooperative Las Angustias and owner of Diez-Mérito. Now that the elections are settled the result goes to the Junta agriculture department which will publish it in an official bulletin.

Things are looking up in Jerez and the election of the president and vice president are seen as a signal of burying the hatchet and giving a new impulse to Sherry. The growers are united in defending their interests, in particular recognition of the value of the vineyard, from which the sector has for decades simply sought volume and homogeneity. Now it is the other way round and it is being recognised again that not all vineyards are the same and not all the grapes are the same quality. The market is prepared to pay for that quality and any increase in price must reflect back on the vineyards, as currently they are no more than covering costs.

Grupo Estévez has launched a new table wine, Ojo de Gallo, which is made from 100% Palomino grapes from vines of over 20 years of age in the firm’s 256 hectares of vineyard in the pago Macharnudo Alto. This new wine evokes the minerality which derives from the albariza soil of this iconic pago and has a decent level of acidity to carry it through. Fermented with selected local yeasts and aged six months in tank on its lees, it is a classic example of what Palomino can do. RRP @ 7€ in Spain.

25.5.16 Distillery Proposal Gains Support

The Grupo Estévez proposal to construct a distillery in the Marco de Jerez is attracting support. The association of independent growers (Asevi-Asaja) has added its weight to the idea - which is not new - and the Junta’s agriculture department has even carried out experiments in the vineyard to determine its viability. The attraction is that it would generate more wealth in the area, which would stay in the area, and benefit all concerned in Sherry production.

The European Union has funded investment in Cádiz (ITI) and some bodegas and many growers would like to see some of it spent on a distillery. Such a project would not only reduce overproduction but would also require the planting of more vineyard to supply the distillery with raw material.

Currently the Marco de Jerez has 6,500 hectares of vineyard in production after the grubbing-up of more than a third of the vineyards in recent years to balance supply and demand. Most of the grubbing-up was financed by EU money in a programme to reduce overproduction of wine in Europe. Much vineyard was also abandoned as growers couldn’t make a profit. It is felt that the distillery would ensure that everything which goes into a bottle Sherry should come from Jerez and that it would provide jobs in an area particularly badly hit by unemployment.

Grupo Estévez is happy to help and feel that the cooperatives would be in the best position to operate the distillery. José Ramón Estévez, president of the group, feels that beyond just producing fortification alcohol, the distillery could go on to produce brandy as well, and that would mean more vineyard and thus more jobs. Estévez are already fortifying with spirit produced from Jerez grapes (though currently distilled in Tomelloso) and would very much like to see a local distillery produce the spirit for 100% Jerez Sherry which would bring with it the possibility of the higher DO level of Denominación de Origen Calificada.

8.4.16 Estévez Opts for 100% Jerez

Grupo Estévez feels sure that the future of Sherry lies with the crianza biológica wines, the Finos and Manzanillas which represent over half of total Sherry sales, not to mention Amontillados which bring an added extra. In future the wines should focus on quality, value and better use of the production of the vineyards, which would require “radical change”.

At the Valdespino bodega yesterday the company’s president, José Ramón Estévez, vice president José Antonio del Cuvillo, and technical director Eduardo Ojeda, presented the first 100% Jerez Finos, Manzanillas and Amontillados, wines fortified with spirit made from 100% Jerez grapes. Estévez firmly believe that the future of the Sherry business lies in a Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC) where all raw materials must come from within the demarcated area.

The wines presented were Manzanillas La Bailaora and La Guita – normal and en rama – Finos Tio Mateo, Real Tesoro and Inocente, and Amontillado Tio Diego in all of which the fortification spirit came from 100% local Palomino, as did the spirit for the añada wines which are still ageing. Currently most spirit comes from Airén grapes in La Mancha.

The presentation in Jerez yesterday (foto:diariojerez)

According to the Estévez calculations 14,000 butts of mosto would need to be distilled to fortify just the Finos and Manzanillas, and that amount would use barely half of the excess mosto from the last harvest which closed with 124,000 butts of which 94,000 qualified for DO Sherry. It would be better to use that and have 100% local production than bring in spirit from elsewhere. Estévez has been encouraging the cooperatives to incorporate a distillery as they have the space and also the overproduction, and he is prepared to invest. The idea was presented to the Junta for possible inclusion in the sharing out of ITI funds.

He quite understands that the bodegas are reluctant to pay a higher price for local spirit when they can buy it cheaper elsewhere. However alcohol prices in La Mancha have fluctuated dramatically – many brands of brandy converted to spirit drinks when the price shot up due to the withdrawal of EU subsidies, and it was much cheaper to use spirit distilled from beetroot. Nonetheless he feels that the use of local spirit would give more confidence to consumers through better traceability and better returns to producers. Estévez wishes other bodegas would join his campaign and take a longer view as this is a long term project to guarantee the future and deserves a chance.

An Interview with José Ramón Estévez

This is an interview by Jesús A Cañas in La Voz Digital with the president of Grupo Estévez.

These are new times for the bodegas of Jerez. While the production of spirits is nothing new, what is new is your commitment to this line of business demonstrated by the launch of new products. Since 1998 Estévez has been producing 50 brands for the supermarket Mercadona and understands the bodegas’ situation perfectly.

How would you describe the adaptability of Jerez?

Very positive. Historically Sherry has had a great capacity to adapt itself to changes in fashion and requirements of the market. From the production of a large range of wines which satisfy different tastes to the production of brandy, liqueurs and Ponche. This diversification allows us to invest in quality: research and development, equipment and human resources which benefit everything.

Would you say that the future of Jerez rests on the exploration of new avenues?

The future rests on changing the status quo and doing things differently. I believe that the most important thing is to put quality at the very centre of things. We need to start with the raw material, the land, the grapes, we must follow a sustainable agro-alimentary chain in which all those involved can make money, invest and improve quality and processes. That would position us in the marketplace as a quality product. We need a change of philosophy along with innovation, diversification and proper promotion of our products.

Jose Ramon in one of the firm's well-known bodegas (foto:lavozdigital)

Where does the Sherry business find itself now?

In a historic moment. I believe the crisis has bottomed out, that qualified grapes will soon fetch 100 pesetas the kilo. Here we still use the old peseta when referring to grape prices! We must change our image and invest our resources wisely, positioning ourselves with a business model based on quality, image and profitability. This would mean defending the Denominación de Origen (DO) and fighting seriously against abuses and appropriation of our image which we have put up with up till now, and the institutions and administrations should take action in these matters which do so much damage to Sherry. I would like to see a Denominación de Origen Calificada (higher than DO) which would presuppose that all our raw materials would be from Palomino, be they concentrated must or alcohol. That would mean added value for bodegas and distributors, create jobs and increase sales. It would be good for everybody.

Do you think that wine tourism could be another possible avenue for economic diversification?

The commitment to wine tourism has already been successful in other wine regions of the world and it something which would no doubt help Sherry. It is an experience which helps people to understand at first hand a great deal about wine culture, something fundamental in our case. At Estévez we are developing a wine tourism programme with visits and activities in the vineyard. We have completely renovated the vineyard house at Viña Bristol and have adapted it so that visitors can enjoy a full experience at our vineyards. They can wander about and get a feel for the albariza soil, and even do a few jobs like aserpiado (creating a depression at the foot of the vine to catch rainwater), pruning or grafting.

The quality of the wines of Jerez is well enough known but not that of the other alcoholic drinks. What would you say about that?

In many cases there is the risk of mistaking a product at an offer or special price for a low quality product, but it is not like that. Our products beat other brands of recognised prestige every time we do a blind tasting, so little by little they are gaining recognition.

Recently people have been talking about a general improvement as a result of the crisis coming to an end. Can it really be seen in the bodegas?

It has been a very hard crisis and the demand for alcoholic drinks has been as badly affected as other products. Wines and spirits form part of our culture but are not necessities. Nevertheless, every crisis brings experience and opportunity. For us they have been years of analysis, improvement of processes, reduction of excess costs, innovation and reinventing ourselves every day. In fact, after years of imbalance between supply and demand stability has come as has a new interest in Sherry. This is a great opportunity to change things. It is time to elevate our products to a position of quality and it is thus necessary to invest the necessary resources into marketing and promotion. You need to do things well right from the start, right from the land to finish up with a unique, genuine and profitable product.

10.7.15 Q & A with Beltran Domecq; More on 100% Jerez

After yesterday’s Desayuno Informativo with Consejo president Beltrán Domecq in Jerez there was the chance to ask him questions. The majority of them focused on the recent announcement from Grupo Estévez that they intended to distil Palomino for fortification spirit thus making their Tio Mateo brand 100% Jerez. The president declared that he disagreed with this and that “all wine certified and supported by the Denominación de Origen (DO) is 100% Jerez.”

The wine producers were well represented and asked various questions on the current position, about such matters as supply and demand, grape prices, the possibility of promoting Sherry from DO to DOC, the proliferation of bag-in-box, all matters in some way related to the Estévez announcement which seems to be generating an element of unease. For Beltrán Domecq the debate on 100% Jerez is closed since everything in a bottle of Sherry is produced locally except a tiny proportion of fortification alcohol which has been used historically to stabilise wine for export.

He feels that if a producer wants to distil excess Palomino grapes into fortification spirit that’s fine, but it makes little sense from the technical point of view since the alcohol currently used has a strength of 95-96%/vol which is the maximum obtainable from distillation and is extremely pure – unlike in the case of Port, where the spirit is only 77%/vol. In other words the Sherry bodegas have always bought alcohol from the distilleries in La Mancha which is clean, pure and neutral and does not alter the characteristics of the wine – fundamentally its flavour.

Sr. Domecq went on to say that a wine such as that proposed by Estévez can’t be made overnight.  It will take years from fortification to final bottling due to the solera system. He also pointed out it would be difficult to certify, and that the debate was unnecessary given the more important challenges facing Sherry.

On the matter of a DOC, the president said that the Consejo had considered it and shelved it. The door is not closed, but there is a problem and that is that the bodegas would have to be dedicated to the production of Sherry only, meaning that brandy, table wine or vinegar would need to be moved to other bodegas, and this would be very costly, especially in the current situation.

Another question was about the fact that Fino can be produced in Sanlúcar, but Manzanilla cannot be produced in Jerez. This matter has been fully debated at the Consejo but due to a lack of agreement it was archived. The president’s view is that “It is obvious that the wine of Sanlúcar is Manzanilla, so there can’t be Fino of Sanlúcar, so the regulations would need to be adjusted.” On the subject of containers he said that bulk Sherry can only be sold in containers of one arroba (@ 16 litres) therefore bag-in-box is illegal and is not supported by the DO.

Many non-trade people asked questions too, and a local councillor who wondered why a Sherry label does not carry a bottling date. Beltrán Domecq did not reject the idea saying that some bodegas already print a “use by” date and always to drink Fino and Manzanilla well chilled.

He expressed his admiration for the growth of the tabancos who bring Sherry culture to young people, but lamented the mistreatment of Sherry on wine lists – even in Jerez – something he is working on. He wound up with a recommendation, one which not a few took on board, fried eggs with ham and a glass of Amontillado “which is what I feel like right now!” (at eleven in the morning).

5.7.15 First 100% Jerez Sherry

Grupo Estévez has decided to make its wines 100% Jerez. If you thought Sherry already is 100% Jerez, well it isn’t quite. The alcohol used for fortification comes from La Mancha and is distilled from the Airén grape rather than the Palomino of Jerez. At about 95%/vol the alcohol is very pure and has no flavour, but it doesn’t come from Jerez. This is a spin-off from Jerez brandy, which needs far greater volumes of grapes than Jerez can produce. At the end of the XIX century distilleries were established in La Mancha for this purpose and logically they also produce the fortification spirit.

The highest level of Denominación de Origen (DO) is the DO “Calificada”, held only by Rioja and Priorato, and Sherry should definitely hold it as well, but there is a general lack of interest. Grupo Estévez is interested, however, and has opted to make all their wines 100% Jerez which is a condition of the DOC. They will start with the 2015 harvest to distil Palomino for fortification and use it in Fino Tio Mateo to begin with and gradually work through the range.

Jose Ramon Estevez growing Sherry (foto:Miguel Angel Gonzalez/diariojerez)

Estévez wants the cooperatives to set aside some of their production for distillation and sell the wine as sobretablas (already fortified rather than just fermented). They would pay the market price for the alcohol and compensate any losses by paying more for the grapes: 80-85 pesetas (@50 céntimos in Euros) the kilo rather than the 65 ptas. paid last year representing an increase of 25-30%. (In Jerez they still use the old peseta for grape purchases).

The cooperatives could thus add value to their product which would help them through difficult times. Sales are still declining and they sometimes have to wait up to two years to be paid, so according to Estévez they need to change their business model to avoid the loss of even more vineyard. Estévez maintain that the idea of 100% Jerez wines is a “strategic decision” which is in contrast to the norm of producing excesses to reduce grape prices to the cheapest in Spain.

José Ramon Estévez would like to see the construction of a distillery in Jerez if the plan goes well. It would also produce 100% Jerez brandy. The company has already sent an important quantity of last year’s Palomino must from Jerez for distillation in La Mancha with this project in mind.

13.5.15 Estevez to Make 100% Jerez Brandy

While the vineyards of Jerez have been drastically reduced, producers are looking at them again as a decisive factor in the final quality of the wine, and indeed other products such as brandy. As things stand, 95% of the grapes for brandy come (legally) from outside the Sherry zone, from La Mancha, as Jerez can’t produce nearly enough, but it would add value if a brandy could be made from Jerez grapes.

Grupo Estévez is hatching a plan to do just that and is looking for trade support in the creation of a distillery. They have set aside a considerable quantity of Jerez wine from 2014 for distillation into a Solera Reserva brandy with plans to later produce a Solera Gran Reserva, and these would provide a market for any excess production.

There exists already the occasional 100% Jerez brandy, but Estévez wants to go a step further by certifying the use of 100% Palomino grapes qualified for Sherry production which will be traceable. According to José Ramón Estévez, group president, this initiative means that, like Cognac for example, every drop in the bottle would come from within the Denominación de Origen and would have the fingerprint of the vineyards of Jerez.

Jose Ramon Estevez (foto:diariodejerez)

This fits in with the Estévez philosophy of putting more value back into the vineyards, dealing with any over-production and guaranteeing the growers a sale for their grapes. However, with the reduction in vineyard a balance was achieved between production and sales, and bodegas have been able to reduce stocks considerably: from 1.2 million butts down to just under 300,000 in recent years. Indeed, some bodegas have not bought any grapes in the last 4 or 5 years, but will need to do so soon making excess production unlikely. This situation is likely to see increases in grape prices.

The brandy business needs to focus on quality, especially as many cheaper brands no longer have the support of the Consejo as they not only reduced the strength to below the minimum of 36%/vol, but blended in non-grape spirit. Estévez want to build a communal distillery – a first for Jerez – which would make quality spirit, 100% Jerez, and reduce costs. Currently the costs of producing spirit in La Mancha are rising due to more expensive grapes and transport, fiscal pressure and a reduction in EU grants, and demand is falling. Estévez therefore believes that this is the right moment to build a distillery and restore quality and value to JEREZ brandy.

6.5.15 Orson Welles; Bullfighting at Real Tesoro; Facelift for Tio Mateo

Today is the centenary of the birth of Orson Welles, the great American actor and film director. While many might recall the television advertisements he did for Domecq Double Century Cream Sherry, fewer might know that he loved Jerez, visiting many times, and was a great ambassador for Sherry.

(foto:amazon.com)

He was a huge fan of flamenco and bullfighting and became a friend of the Domecq family, one of whose members was Álvaro Domecq, a famous rejoneador (horseback bullfighter). Welles frequently referred to Sherry as the “best wine in the world” and was inducted into the Order of Tio Pepe by the Marqués de Torresoto in 1961, signing a butt at the bodega. (From an article by R.G. in más jerez)

The famous Jerez torero Juan José Padilla has been giving a masterclass to the newly constituted Juventud Taurina Jerezana (Junior Bullfighting Jerez). Watched avidly by the youngsters and their families Juan José, along with some members of his team, explained and demonstrated the various moves in the beautiful surroundings of the events hall of the bodega Real Tesoro, producer of Fino Tio Mateo.

Juan Jose (L) with his muleta

Fino Tio Mateo from bodegas Real Tesoro (Grupo Estevez) has had a facelift. The old label, similar to that of Palomino & Vergara (who once owned the brand) has been revamped and modernised. The bottle has been changed too, from the standard Real Tesoro shape to a tall round style, now with a screwcap. Furthermore, the wine itself has been improved to achieve the maximum freshness and calcareous character of the albariza soils while maintaining the wine’s intense flor notes.

The new more contemporary version

Palomino & Vergara's latter label (foto:todocoleccion)

Grupo Estévez Finances Old Vine Study

A very interesting article on an important subject in today’s Diario de Jerez

A team of researchers at the Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC) will study the collection of vine varieties amassed by Simón de Rojas Clemente y Rubio (1777-1827) which has been conserved  for over 200 years at the Royal Botanic Garden in Madrid. The financing of the study is the result of an agreement between the CSIC and Grupo Estévez, owners of Bodegas La Guita, Marqués del Real Tesoro and Valdespino as well as some 800 hectares of vineyard.

Their collaboration in this project demonstrates the group’s business philosophy of backing the vineyard with the purpose of achieving a sustainable agro-alimentary chain and empowering the primary (vine growing) sector. It will improve conditions for the growers by re-investing some of the profits into the vineyards to improve the productivity and quality of the final product. This is an objective which Estévez shares with the supermarket Mercadona to whom they are major wine and spirit suppliers.

Statue to Simon de Rojas Clemente in Madrid's Royal Botanic Garden
(foto commons.wikimedia.org)

The study will be led by the CSIC researcher María del Carmen Martínez, already in charge of the viticulture group at the Biological Mission of Galicia, and will identify the varieties of vine using ampelograpy (traditional study of vine varieties) and DNA. The vine specimens have been conserved since 1802 and the researchers hope to discover which varieties are still used and which have disappeared. Alongside the study team will be researchers from the Botanic Garden and INRA, the French viticultural station at Montpellier.

Maria del Carmen Martinez at work (foto diario jerez)

According to Martínez, this is the oldest collection of vine varieties in the world: the second oldest being a collection in France dating from 1870. The Rojas Clemente collection consists of 186 sheets, each with the dried leaves and buds of a specific variety. All the samples were collected in Andalucía, mostly around Sanlúcar, Trebujena and Jerez.

Simón de Rojas Clemente was the first to apply scientific method to the study and description of cultivated vine varieties and is thus considered to be the world’s first ampelographer. In 1807 he published a book, translated into various languages and later imitated, in which he established a method of description. Nearly all the parameters he established are still in use and form part of the official method used by the OIV (International Organisation for the Vine and Wine) which has 46 member countries.

Clemente (as he is generally referred to) includes in his book a description of the majority of the vines conserved in his collection, but his habit of giving them names dedicated to authors or just inventing them means that it is difficult to know which he is referring to with exactitude. Now that we can complete the book’s descriptions using ampelographical and molecular studies directly on the conserved samples we should be able to know which are still in existence and which are not, says Martínez.

From the point of view of Estévez, their collaboration with the CSIC is the beginning of a period of cooperation between the two entities with the common objective of being at the forefront of science, innovation and wine focusing on the wealth of the Spanish viticultural patrimony. Improved understanding of it and its improvement will be of benefit to all.

La Bota de Amontillado No 37 18.5%, Equipo Navazos

Appearance
Light amber with coppery orange tints, legs.
Nose
Amazingly fresh nose with hints of saltiness and minerals, lots of savoury autolytic notes, a hint of Marmite and yeasty bitterness remaining. Then there's the oxidative side with  traces of quince, and the beginnings of the nuttiness and implied sweetness of an Amontillado. This is amazing: at 18 years you could still almost call it a Manzanilla Pasada - but for that hint of sweetness. Manzanilla Muy Pasada?!
Palate
Here the weight and strength of the Amontillado comes in at first, nutty with trace sweetness, but still there are those saline yeasty characteristics giving it a real raw tang which of course balances perfectly with the slight sweetness. A fascinating wine, bursting with flavour, very long and of a type almost unobtainable anywhere else. It is not cheap, but you should get some: it shows you exactly how Amontillados evolve from Manzanillas. A magnificent wine!
Comments
Another masterpiece from Equipo Navazos. 3,000 bottles of this wine (equivalent to @ 4.5 butts) were sourced from Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin (La Guita) in Sanlucar, and bottled in August 2012. When Grupo Estevez bought the bodega in 2007, there were various tiny "Manzanilla Pasada" soleras which had been laid down by a previous oenologist, and these were rationalised. {The term Manzanilla Pasada is used in Sanlucar to denote wines which could be anywhere between old Manzanilla and young Amontillado}. The finest and most complex butts were selected, and they were refreshed with selected unfortified Manzanilla, creating a very natural Amontillado solera of just over 100 butts. Throughout June 2012 Navazos selected a dozen or so of the butts for their freshness and complexity. The average age of this wine is 18 years, yet it is as fresh as a daisy - like an Amontillado Fino!
Price
£46.00 from Drinkmonger Edinburgh. UK agents Rhone to Rioja.

Moscatel Promesa 17%, Valdespino

Appearance

Deep amber, quite viscous in the glass, and yes, legs.

Nose

Gorgeous nose. Made from super ripe fat juicy Moscatel raisins with all sorts of things going on. Dusty traces of oak (even for its youth), honey, a fair bit of citrus - somewhere between orange and marmalade, also very grapey and raisiny, like all Moscatel,  and slight hints of tea, toffee and turron.

Palate

Big, soft, grapey, juicy and very broad. There is an attractive and refreshing acidity which goes some way to balancing the residual sugar, and a fantastic rich grapeskin texture. This wine needs to be rolled round the mouth while drawing in air to really get the feel. It is full, yet so light. Marvellous.

Comments

Made (like most Moscateles) from Moscatel de Alejandria grapes grown in Chipiona, famous for Moscatel, which are sunned for a week to 10 days - not as long as PX -  to retain acidity. The must begins to ferment and is soon fortified to 16% to retain the natural grape sugars (somewhere around 250 g/l - not much more than half that of PX). The wine is then aged in solera for around 8 years till required for bottling. Some of this delicious Moscatel (90 Parker) is sold as Promesa and the rest ages much longer to become the famous Moscatel Toneles (100 Parker) QV.

Price

In Spain around 14.50 Euros. Liberty Wines are the UK agents, but don't appear to be listing Promesa.

Amontillado Muy Viejo del Principe 18.5%, Real Tesoro

Appearance

Mid to deep amber, chestnut, legs.

Nose

Classic Amontillado, gentle, elegant, fairly light, complex and attractive with a certain glyceric sweetness - and yet there's a dry element there too - and lots of hazelnut. It is restrained, refined with traces of straw, dry scrub and turron de yema tostada.

Palate

Again fairly light and very elegant, fresh and clean. More straw and hazelnut notes with that gentle implied sweetness. There are traces of its Fino past in the form of a very slightly saline autolysis balancing well with the oxidative character. On the finish it is long, dry and very satisfying.

Comments

This 93 Parker point wine is made from Macharnudo grapes and is one of the very few fermented in barrel. It is aged as a Fino for about 8 years, then further fortified and put into the Amontillado solera. It is released at around 16 - 18 years old. The old Marques del Real Tesoro firm belongs to Grupo Estevez, and its bodegas are now in the same complex as Valdespino, on the outskirts of Jerez. This should not be confused with Barbadillo's Amontillado Principe.

Price

Unfortunately not available in the UK, around 15-20 Euros in Spain.

11.3.14 Tasting; Tabancos; Feria; Brandy; Estevez/Covisan

After the success of the interactive online Manzanilla and Fino tasting in January between Cesar Saldaña, director of the Consejo Regulador, and Chelsea Anthon, general manager of International Sherry Week and some restaurateurs in Australia, another tasting is to take place with 60 London restaurateurs in Sevilla.

The tasting is organised by the Restaurant magazine as the highlight of a two day culinary trip. The restaurateurs will unfortunately be unable to visit Jerez, but at least they will be able to see how amazing the wines are. As Chelsea puts it, “I can’t allow such a powerful group to leave Andalucia without tasting the best wines in the world.”

Jesus Muñoz, president of Tabancora, the association of traditional bars in Jerez, has been in London at the invitation of the city’s latest Sherry bar, Drake’s Tabanco. The new establishment, at 3, Windmill Street, Fitzrovia, London, and which only opened last October, serves Sherry from the barrel – with a venencia! They also serve a wide variety of delicious looking Spanish food. Jesus Muñoz was impressed how the staff act as Sherry educators.

The 2014 Feria del Caballo in Jerez will take place between the 11^th and 18^th of May. The poster for this spectacular feria has just been revealed at Gonzalez Byass, and here it is, a montage of 2,166 Sherry glasses!

Jerez Brandy sales have seen a sharp fall over the last few years due to various adverse conditions. Sales of the top level brandies actually rose slightly, but those of the cheaper ones have been falling fairly dramatically. Brandy has faced changes in consumer drinking habits, such as the disappearance of the early morning noggin or one after dinner. Gin is seen by the younger drinkers as far more modern and fashionable, along with whisky and rum – and are far cheaper to make. Not only is the raw material (grapes) 3 times the price of cereals or molasses, but brandy needs costly ageing. European Union grants for potable spirits distillation have all but dried up, and recent grape harvests have been very small.

Producers are having to focus on promoting brandy in the export markets, while the domestic market declines. The Brandy Consejo Regulador is looking at changes to the production rules, one of which is that the spirit must have a minimum alcohol content of 36 degrees. Some producers have argued for a reduction, and also to be permitted to sell non-grape spirit under existing brandy brand names. The latter has caused some controversy.

Grupo Estevez and the Sanlucar cooperative Covisan have been celebrating working together. Last Saturday the 167 growers and their families were welcomed at the cooperative bodega by its president, Antonio Palacios, then addressed by Estevez president, Jose Ramon Estevez. He highlighted the history of Estevez, owner of La Guita, its commitment to Sanlucar, vineyard sustainability, quality, and the importance of origin. All the grapes for Manzanillas La Bailora and La Guita come from Sanlucar. A visit to the La Guita bodegas followed, and cooperative members could see the 14,000 butts of Manzanilla stored there. They also saw what happens to the must made at their bodega to transform it into finished wine. Estevez explained the joint project with supermarket Mercadona and their efforts to develop a sustainable agro-alimentary chain. The event shows the strong bond between the cooperative and Estevez, and the latter’s commitment to but most of the cooperative’s produce.

Manzanilla La Bailaora 15%, Bodegas Jose Estevez

Appearance
Pale bright lemony gold, some legs.
Nose
Fresh, young, still hints of Palomino fruit along with a maritime air and a little dry bitterness from the flor. Quite soft with a savoury note there, but overall young, light and yeasty.
Palate
A little more intense than the nose with strong seaside flavours, traces almond, fairly fruity, quite a pretty wine which lacks the depth that further ageing would have conferred. Clean, fresh and a little short, but pleasant nonetheless - and inexpensive.
Comments
A bailaora means a dancer, the one who appears on the label. Manzanilla from Estevez must mean the wine is from La Guita, one of their subsidiaries, or it may be bought in. This is the Manzanilla for the Marques del Real Tesoro range, and has been on the market as such for a long time, though originally spelled "bailadora", and probably of better quality then. Anyway this is a young wine probably not yet four years old, and is a Manzanilla Fina, in other words filtered,so it is light fresh and easy going, ideal for the supermarket shelves it was designed for, and the ferias of Andalucia.
Price
Not available outside Spain, it cost 2,44 euros in Mercadona supermarket (who work extensively with Estevez for most of their alcoholic products).