Sunday, 18 December 2016

Tosca Cerrada 2014 12,5%, Mario Rovira

Bright with some depth of colour and golden reflections, light legs.
This reeks of "terroir" with strong mineral and saline notes as well as apple - even a trace of cider - though it is not particularly fruity, and flor bitterness. It is forthcoming and fairly full with slight Manzanilla characteristics if not the alcohol. Really interesting.
Again quite full and assertive with the normal table wine acidity replaced by flor bitterness giving good balance and a fresh minerality. It is dry with a good clean finish, and not SO unlike an unfortified Manzanilla with traces of Palomino fruit, and with lots of flavour.
Mario Rovira Roldan is a dynamic young winemaker from Barcelona who fell in love with the Mencia grape in el Bierzo, where in 2010 he acquired 2.5 hectares of old vines and built a reputation as Bodegas Akilia. He is working on Palomino in Bierzo and makes a blend of it with Dona Blanca which should be interesting. This is a new project from vineyards in the Pago Balbaina supported by Delgado Zuleta, who also bottle the wine for him unfiltered. The wine is 100% Palomino Fino and is aged for seven months in ex Manzanilla butts, during which time flor is present for four months. Unfortunately there were only 456 bottles of the 2014 vintage, but with quality like this he should be encouraged to produce more. In fact I gather there were 4 butts of the 2015, so look out for it! Tosca Cerrada is a form of Albariza soil.
16.50 euros from Er Guerrita

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