Thursday, 22 December 2016

Rich Old Oloroso Royal Corregidor VOS 20%, Sandeman

Very deep yet transparent blacky brown fading through oak gall ink to amber at the rim, legs.
There is a distinct aroma of age here with considerable depth and complexity. The nose is dry and serious with lots of old oak and walnuts and even a hint of spice, yet traces of fruit and cinder toffee from the PX. There is even the slightest trace of licorice. Such complexity can only come from very old soleras, and indeed they are.
The first material sign of sweetness starts here with old PX richness but the wine is a good bit less sweet than a Cream. The PX is probably there to balance out any astringency from the very old Oloroso, and there is certainly not much astringency now; rather a hint of very slightly burned fruit cake, a delightful texture and almost interminable length.
This complex "Rich Old Oloroso" comes from a very old Oloroso solera bought from Antonio Bernardo Quirós as part of an 800 butt purchase of Oloroso in 1894. According to Jan Read the solera has 14 scales.  The Oloroso is blended with a little old Pedro Ximenez (10%) from the Royal Ambrosante solera which is also sold separately as a VOS. This gives the wine an attractive depth, richness and fruitiness without being over sweet; in fact it contains 90g/l sugars but, certainly on the nose, seems drier. It is named after the Royal Corregidor vineyard which Sandeman owned for some time, and the wine is released in limited sacas with numbered bottles.
22 euros per 50cl bottle from Licores Corredera

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