Thursday, 29 December 2016

Amontillado Piñero VORS 19%, Juan Piñero

Deep amber with golden highlights and a faint trace of green at the rim, legs.
Fragrant and intense with a distinct salty maritime note with lots of salted almond balanced by sweeter notes of hazelnut, toasted caramel and hints of cabinet maker's workshop and bakery. A serious and complex nose but very beautiful.
Super elegant at the start with that attractive Amontillado implied nutty sweetness then the amazingly delicate structure comes through, round and balanced despite traces of tannin which are completely contained. That salinity is still there giving an almost sweet and sour effect which really stimulates the palate, and keeps doing so for ages.
This superb old Sanlúcar wine is between 35 and 40 years old and comes from a solera with 4 criaderas and was bottled as recently as August. It scored a worthy 92 points from Parker. It is a classic example of  Sanlúcar Amontillado which has a lightness of touch, an attractive salty - almost iodiney - maritime character which gives the wines a slightly crisper, nervier edge than that of Jerez, and there could be no doubt that this is simply very old and very well cared-for Manzanilla.
30.15 euros per 50cl bottle from Licores Corredera

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