Friday, 17 May 2019

Ube de Ubérrima Maina 2016 14.5%, Bodegas Cota 45

Bright golden straw with golden highlights.
Full and forthcoming with a little weight from good ripeness of the appley Palomino grapes and faint tropical notes. There is also a saline maritime air coming presumably from the vineyard location near Sanlúcar and the ageing in an ex Manzanilla butt. All the above makes for a very interesting and appetising character.
It is quite soft and nicely rounded and beautifully balanced with moderate but sufficient acidity and it has considerable depth with lots of ripe apple fruit. There is a faint trace of residual sugar which is dried out by that gentle salinity, and of course a hint of albariza chalkiness making it very moreish.
This excellent wine is made from grapes grown in  the extreme northern part of the La Charanga vineyard in the pago Ma(h)ina near Sanlúcar which is partially surrounded by marshland and has very fine albariza in the form of barajuelas which have a very high marine fossil content. Its producer, Ramiro Ibáñez, is dedicated to making wines as they were in the past, using old vines and methods but with modern skills to display the personality of the vineyard itself and that of the vintage without letting flor or winemaking techniques obscure it. So this is a single vineyard wine, 100% Palomino selected at the vineyard and fermented and aged in an ex Manzanilla butt with flor kept to an absolute minimum. Those wines of the past must have been great.
37.95, De Albariza

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