Tuesday, 21 May 2019
Palo Cortado en rama 2002 saca enero 2019 20%, Williams & Humbert
Bright amber with brassy golden highlights.
Very elegant and lighter than one might expect for its age but with all sorts of subtle and complex nuances. There are still slightly saline traces of Fino along with hints of toasted bread, some nutty very slightly rancio oxidative notes, faint traces of olive, blonde tobacco, recently sawn wood, a very gentle caramel sweetness. It has neither the overt almond of Amontillado nor the walnut of Oloroso and the oxidation is very delicate, unusual and delightful, with a distant trace of spice.
A little bigger on the palate with a faint biological bitterness and salinity in the background and a touch more volatile acidity than expected, but that soon rounds itself off, balanced by a tiny amount of residual sugar and the wine finishes dry. It has an attractive texture with a hint of that albariza dryness with hardly any tannin so it is very smooth and extremely graceful with good length.
100% Palomino grapes from the firm´s own vineyards in the classic Jerez pagos of Carrascal and Añina were lightly pressed and fermented in tanks before the wine was filled into bodega butts where it was left to age statically rather than in solera. This wine was fortified to 18% at the sobretablas stage when it had only had just a little flor, and it spent the rest of its life ageing oxidatively. Since every butt is different, they are carefully monitored and classified, and in this case a selection was made from the best of the 24 butts ageing oxidatively which really showed albariza character and the finesse of Palo Cortado.
Price33.85 per 50cl, Licores Corredera