Saturday, 25 May 2019

Manzanilla en rama Nave Trinidad 15%, Barbadillo

Faintly brassy strawy gold with golden highlights.
Very fresh with delicate floral and herbal notes and with the bitter almondy flor characteristics kept to a minimum, though there is a certain yeastiness. There are traces of briny salinity too, and while it is (deliberately) a less complex and intense wine than the firm´s other en ramas, it exudes freshness and charm, getting a shade more complex as it warms up.
Light, clean and fresh, fairly zesty with distant echoes of fruit along with grassy hints of green meadow herbs, and a trace of camomile (manzanilla in Spanish). Acidity is perfect and there is a very faint trace of chalky texture, while the finish is clean and long with a little complexity sneaking in there - and rather moreish.
This is a completely new and very good Manzanilla en rama from Barbadillo which, while it has great quality, is intended to fill a gap between regular Manzanilla and the more complex and expensive Manzanillas pasadas en rama like Solear Pastora and Arboledilla, providing a very characterful wine at a reasonable price and aimed at younger people. This is also reflected in the label design. The firm´s oenologist, Montse Molina, has created a particular solera of 36 butts for this wine by selecting suitable wines from criaderas in the main solera, mainly those housed in the bodega El Toro, the firm´s first bodega. This XIX century bodega is designed on traditional lines with four warehouses built round a square patio, each giving – over time – slight differences in ageing conditions. One of these warehouses (“naves” in Spanish) is called “Trinidad”. This delicious new wine has an average age of four years and is only available in ½ bottles, 20,000 in this first saca. I can´t imagine how Barbadillo could have done a better job in fulfilling the brief they set themselves. Trinidad is also a Spanish girl´s name which keeps the brand to the feminine tradition for Manzanilla brand names.
8.50 euros, De Albariza

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