Sunday, 6 May 2018

Amontillado Fino 18%, Bodegas Pedro Romero

Antique polished light mahogany fading to amber with copper glints.
Slightly closed at first but its complexity soon opens out and it is really quite intense with lots of toasted bread, hazelnut and almond, savoury hints of salted caramel and a briny salinity giving it that Sanlúcar touch. In fact one can still detect traces of Manzanilla. There is a faint trace of oak which contributes to its serious air, but it is elegant too.
Attractively light yet quite intense with beautifully harmonised elements of minerality, nuttiness, and salinity and just enough glycerine to give the perfect roundness without balancing out too much of the acidity which gives it its slightly racy edge. Almost crisp and very elegant and long, delicious.
This delicious wine must easily have ten years in bottle judging by its shyness and a certain amount of light sediment. In 2012 the term Amontillado Fino was dropped, so it was certainly bottled before then. Once one of the most important bodegas in Sanlúcar, Pedro Romero closed its doors in 2014 after over 150 years, tragically going bust. Rather than being a Fino Amontillado which is a Fino at the crux of Amontillado, this is an Amontillado Fino or a fine (quality/elegant) Amontillado, and it certainly is. It was probably about 15 years old at bottling and at a lovely stage of development, then and now.
30 euros per 50cl, Burcamer, Sanlúcar

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