Tuesday, 9 October 2018

Vino Blanco Las Mercedes 2017 12%, Viña Callejuela

Very bright and clean fairly pale gold with golden highlights.
Fresh with lots of apple both fresh and stewed and a trace of pear with bright floral notes, even a faint trace of confectionery and digging deeper there is a slight apricot note. Then there is a more serious side with notable minerality and just a gentle hint of flor followed by a charming, rounded, harmonious character  which can only develop into something very attractive.
The wine is super fresh and has great presence yet is quite light with a gently zingy acidity balanced by the fruity orchard notes which then fade into the dry, more saline and mineral chalky texture one expects, but the fruit is a constant. It is still very young but beautifully balanced, clean and elegant, one to keep for a couple of years, but I´ve drunk it already. If only there were more available.
This is one of the triumvirate of table wines produced by the Blanco brothers of Viña Callejuela, men brought up in the vineyard who believe that you can´t make good wine without good grapes and who also fervently believe in the soils. These three wines come from their total vineyard holdings of 28 hectares shared between the pagos Macharnudo, Callejuela and Añina. This wine is from the latter which lies between Jerez and Sanlúcar, though closer to Jerez and comes from the 8.5 hectare Las Mercedes vineyard. These wines are made in identical fashion; hand picked, tank fermented and aged briefly in ex Manzanilla butts under flor (perhaps 7 months or so) till bottling in the spring. The idea is to demonstrate how different the wines are from the different pagos with all other factors being the same, and these three wines really do that. And they are delicious too!
13.50 euros, De Albariza

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