Monday, 29 October 2018

Manzanilla Arboledilla Levante 2018 15%, Barbadillo

Pale to mid strawy gold, golden highlights, if anything a fraction deeper that Poniente.
Fresh and very saline with notes of straw and dry herbs. The flor is not over pronounced but there is certainly a slight bitter aldehydic note along with olive brine and sourdough. It seems just a shade fuller and more mature than Poniente yet a little less herbal. Classic Manzanilla, though.
Fairly full, saline, attractively bitter and quite complex with olive brine flavours and faint traces of butteriness and cabezuela, even a distant hint of oxidation.  This Levante is slightly more "pasada" than the Poniente, and quite delicious.
The bodega Arboledilla is possibly the finest in Sanlúcar. This large bodega sits at the eastern edge of the Barrio Alto looking out over the Guadalquivir estuary and is protected by a sort of garden of trees (hence its name) from the Levante and from the busy road which connects the two barrios. This is where the famous Manzanilla Solear is aged, and this wine is effectively much the same at between 5 and 6 years´ average age, only it is made from a selection of butts and bottled en rama in February 2018. It is one of a pair, however. The other wine is called Poniente, and the only difference between the two is that they come from butts stored at either side of the bodega to show how the internal environment can vary and the difference which that can make to the wine, not immense, but noticeable. It is a fascinating idea, and when this pair was launched last year it quickly sold out.
12.50 euros Licores Corredera

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