Wednesday, 12 September 2018

Desvelao 2017 12.5%, Cuatro Ojos Wines

Bright pale golden straw with the faintest hint of green and golden highlights.
Intense and super fresh aroma of Moscatel with lots of fruit notes like mandarin, kiwi and peach with hints of white flowers and tea. There is a faint mineral note and a trace of flor which add a balancing and slightly more serious note, but all told, a lovely nose.
Clean, fresh and zippy with an attractive tangy yet balanced acidity, and there is lots of that mandarin fruit along with a slight apple note and a very slightly bitter edge and a dry chalky texture. This is delicious, pure and very refreshing with good length.
This is the second commercial vintage of Desvelao, a wine  made the artisan way by the three Cuatro Ojos girls in their small bodega in El Puerto de Santa María. It is a fairly unusual style of wine being 100% Moscatel de Alejandría but fermented dry, and it works really well. The grapes come from the albariza soils of Finca La Blanquita in the pago Balbaína where they are hand-picked and pressed, and the must is then taken to the bodega. This must is used to make 3 wines: Contra Tiempo, Molinero and Desvelao, but they are made in slightly different ways. It is fermented at low temperature with natural yeast for a couple of days before the addition of selected yeast and Desvelao has the added flavour imparted by flor yeast during 3 months of ageing in tank on the lees. The wine is bottled without filtration and rested in bottle for a couple of months before sale. Only around 400 bottles produced. I do wish they would put the vintage on the label, albeit this one is different to last year's.
15.50, De Albariza

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