Thursday, 6 September 2018

Blanco Hornillos 2017 12.5%, Viña Callejuela

Paleish strawy silvery gold with golden glints.
Fresh, pure and faintly yeasty with delicate apple, pear and apricot fruit and traces of fresh herbs like camomile, and white flowers, almost like walking through an orchard to a meadow in fresh slightly maritime air. There are hints of salinity and chalky soil too. Attractive, delicate and refined.
A little more weight now, and some more apple, there is a decent refreshing acidity making it almost crisp and plenty of tangy fruit flavour along with a hint of salinity and a slight chalky feel which slightly blunts the acidity, and a faint bitterness at the long clean finish. A charming and very drinkable wine.
This is a straightforward white wine from Callejuela's Hornillos vineyard in Sanlúcar which surrounds the bodega. It is 100% Palomino fermented in tank where it is allowed to decant after the malo-lactic. It has no flor, no oak, no ageing, as none of these are necessary to produce a decent white wine. What it does have is a certain flavour of the albariza soil and the environment of the Guadalquivir estuary along with the fruit of perfectly ripened grapes. This is exactly the same wine which will be fortified to feed the Manzanilla criaderas, and it amazing how its flavour can still be detected in the Manzanilla as it ages. The Blanco brothers are "mayetos" as they call growers in Sanlúcar, and want their wines to reflect the vineyards they are so proud of. Good price too for a wine with real character.
6.95, De Albariza


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