Tuesday, 7 August 2018

Vino Blanco Bijuré 2017 12%, Coop Albarizas

Clean bright gold with golden highlights.
Attractive up front with gentle orchard fruit notes like apple, pear and apricot and a hint of blossom, and then it gets more serious with mineral and faintly saline notes, possibly even a trace of flor, which instantly give away its origin. You can faintly smell the albariza, the Guadalquivir, the salt marshes and the not so distant sea. And it smells so natural.
Both the fruit and the minerally salinity are there straight off, and the wine has a certain presence, it is not some cheap co-op wine at all. It has a perfectly judged acidity, a lovely almost sherbet fruit and a dry chalky texture, and is extremely refreshing and moreish. Very much a wine of its place, and one of character which will even improve a few years in bottle.
A white wine from Cádiz which isn't 100% Palomino? That's right! And it is very good value for money too. And above all, it is interesting. This new wine comes from the Cooperativa Vitivinicola Albarizas at Trebujena, not so far from Sanlúcar, and not so different, overlooking the Guadalquivir estuary. The label states that it is made from the Vidueño grape, which is not actually a grape variety but rather a fairly ad hoc mix of grapes which happen to be in the vineyard. In fact these are very old vines of various varieties (including Palomino) which have almost disappeared from the area since Palomino took over. This gives the wine its unusual but delicious flavour, and  it is very good to know that some are trying to revive them. The wine is fermented in butts seasoned with Fino, Amontillado and Oloroso, and after natural decantation it is blended together and bottled with no more ageing than a while on the lees. It sold out very quickly. The word Bijuré is a Gypsy word for "golden".
7.00 euros, Licores Corredera

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