Thursday, 2 August 2018

Manzanilla pago Añina Añada 2014 16%, Viña Callejuela

Fairly full amber tinged gold with bright amber highlights.
Full, complex and assertive, there are some distinct notes of oxidation with the characteristic very slight caramel and overripe apple character, yet you can still find a salty maritime air and hints of brine and esparto along with a faint buttery note. It is almost beyond Manzanilla Pasada, there can't have been much flor left, and there is a hint of toasted bread and a very slight nuttiness.
Again full, a trace of Oloroso character here but still light in weight and strength and at the very early stages of its oxidative future. It is clean and well rounded with moderate acidity and quite intensely flavoured yet while the oxidative character dominates, you can still make out some Manzanilla notes; there is a slightly salty freshness and the faintest bitterness. Amazing stuff.
The Blanco brothers of  Viña Callejuela own vineyards in 3 pagos: Callejuela in Sanlúcar, Añina between Sanlúcar and Jerez and Macharnudo, regarded as the "grand cru" of Jerez. The three different vineyards give very different wines and the brothers have produced a range of three wines, one from each vineyard and all from the 2014 vintage, so the only difference between them is the vineyard. Being vintage wines they have not been refreshed as they would have been in a solera so they are more concentrated, effectively tasting a little older. They were all bottled in May 2018 making them nearly 4 years old but with a complexity which belies their age. Lying farther inland from the sea and the Guadalquivir, Añina gives fuller bodied wines than Callejuela, but the wine was aged in Sanlúcar and under flor so it is slightly fuller than "normal" Manzanilla. Given its style and stage of development it was classified as a Cortado, a wine which with continued ageing should become a Palo Cortado.
26.50 per 50 cl, Licores Corredera

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