Friday, 3 August 2018

Manzanilla pago Macharnudo Añada 2014 16%, Viña Callejuela

Amber tinged golden straw with gold reflections.
Attractive complex and fresh although it is well developed for its age, with notable minerality, hints of straw, almond, damp cloth, olive brine and very faint aromas of butter and Marmite. Oxidation is slightly more advanced than in the Callejuela but less so than in the Añina. The characteristic flor bitterness is noticeable but not particularly obvious and the overall impression is of quite a mature biological wine, almost as if it had a few years in bottle.
Fairly full,very classy and very much still a biological wine; there is still a bitter bite from the flor yet there is also a very smooth, almost creamy feel to it. It is very dry with notes of brine and esparto with traces of cabezuela (though there can't have been much) and all the nuances are beautifully harmonised to give a very sophisticated result. It is delicious, long and very satisfying.
This is one of a trio of wines from the 2014 vintage produced in the vineyards owned by the Blanco brothers of Viña Callejuela in the pagos Callejuela, Añina and Macharnudo. They were all vinified separately but in the same way so as to highlight the styles of wine the different vineyards produce. The wines were all aged statically, no solera, and bottled on the same date, 6/5/2018, so they are all approximately 3 years and 8 months old. Without the refreshment and homogeneity provided by a solera the wines age and develop more quickly and in slightly different ways making them extremely interesting. Already they have reached 16%, unlikely in a solera, and have very distinct identities. The pago Macharnudo is regarded as the best of the pagos located near Jerez, and while grapes from any part of the area can be used to make Manzanilla, Macharnudo grapes are less common. This wine was classified as a Palma, an elegant and mature Fino/Manzanilla. These three wines were a brilliant idea and are a real experience and education in how Sherry develops, and the incredible range of styles produced. 2014 was a good year with few serious problems and a "normal" but very early harvest.
26.50 per 50 cl, Licores Corredera

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