Saturday, 28 April 2018

Amontillado Perpendicular 22%, Las Botas

Attractive antique chestnut fading through amber to a green tinge at the rim, copper highlights.
It immediately smells old and complex with traces of oak along with some real refinement. There are lots of toasted nuts made crisper with a hint of volatile acidity, traces of tobacco, aromatic woods, incense and of course a hint of salinity, all balanced up with a gentle hint of almond in caramel. At this age many of the super subtle nuances have harmonised into a classic and charming bouquet.
The opening gambit is crisp and zippy with a refreshing acidity which helps accentuate the bones of the wine; nuts and salinity on a faintly oaky background. There can be no doubt this intense wine is from Sanlúcar. While assertive, it is fairly light and as it opens out more of its subtleties show themselves; faint notes of spices like vanilla and cinnamon with faint notes of toast and turron yema tostada. The finish is characterful, clean and almost eternal. Magnificent.
This is the second release of Perpendicular bottled (en rama) in December 2017 for Balandro Vinos consisting of 900 x 50cl bottles, and it is amazing. It comes from a selection from 6 butts which were originally in the bodega of the church of Santo Domingo, on the corner next to the Argüeso bodegas of Calle Mar in Sanlúcar, and was incorporated into the latter in the XIX century. Argüeso now belongs to Francisco Yuste. The wine has an average age of some 70 years and began life as Manzanilla, with no doubt many years under flor, reaching its alcoholic strength entirely naturally by concentration, without re-fortification. This release is a very different style from the first which was a superb 20 year old Jerez wine from Bodegas Urium.
39 euros per 50cl bottle, La Tienda del Jerez


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