Wednesday 13 September 2017

Amontillado Aurora 19%, Bodegas Yuste

Pure amber with coppery gold highlights and the slightest trace of green at the rim.
Interesting and attractive, fresh, saline and savoury with lots of coastal notes of sea air, seaweed and beaches, then there are the oxidative, almost rancio notes with walnut - almost walnut in syrup - with traces of hazelnut and a slight hint of caramel. Its complexity creeps up on you as you are enjoying it so much. Classic Sanlúcar Amontillado.
Light and open textured, dry, almost crisp with that salted caramel note almost balancing the salinity and a trace of volatile acidity yet giving a fleeting appearance of sweetness and an attractive tension. There is very little tannin, the acidity is perfect and the alcohol is well contained. The effect is a wine with real character which is supremely elegant and very long.
Francisco Yuste has created a range of fine quality wines around the name Aurora which originated with his purchase of Pedro Romero's Manzanilla Aurora solera. This wine started out as a Manzanilla, and it certainly shows; it could only be from Sanlúcar and it is extremely good. And very well priced. Interestingly it was allowed to become Amontillado without a second fortification, which let it slowly develop through the full pasada stage and gain considerable complexity. It has an average age of about 20 years. In fact it goes on to feed the last criadera of the famous Conde de Aldama Amontillado solera, one of Sanlúcar's finest.
12.60 euros per 50cl, Licores Corredera

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