Monday, 2 May 2016

La Bota de Palo Cortado 51 "Bota GF" 22%, Equipo Navazos

Deep burnished mahogany amber with a hint of green at the rim signifying age, legs. You can see the concentration as the liquid moves slightly more slowly in the glass than younger wines.
Exquisite, perfumed, beautifully rounded and quite intense, toasted almonds in caramel, polished antique furniture, slightly toasted and astringent traces of barrel oak are balanced by a gorgeous glyceric sweetness like walnut in syrup, even mazipan. If age makes perfect, then here is proof.
Full and dry, with quite a tannic grip at first, but the sweeter side kicks in just balancing most of that out, along with the volatile acidity. This is a very powerful wine with intense nutty woody flavours yet immense charm and interminable length. Pour some into a large glass and sip slowly for hours of guaranteed pleasure.
Bottled in February 2014 this classic comes from the old and tiny Gaspar Florido solera GF 30 owned by Pedro Romero since 2007, but since their demise, it is now owned by the Asencio brothers. Equipo Navazos first encountered old Gaspar and this solera in 2006 at a ramshackle old bodega where it was then located, though it is now in the sacristia at Pedro Romero nearby along with solera GF 25. The wine has somewhere between 50 and 80 years average age and was sold by both Gaspar Florido and Pedro Romero as simply Jerez Viejisimo GF 30 without specifying the type of wine as the old boy felt that with such great age you can't really distinguish a Palo Cortado from and Amontillado from an Oloroso. This wine is from the same tiny solera as Numbers 41 "Bota No", 47 "Bota No" and 48 "Bota Punta". It may seem expensive but it actually represents stunning value for money when compared to many others, and this sort of wine is becoming ever scarcer nowadays.
75 Euros per half bottle. Consult UK agents Alliance Wine for retailers, or online at Coalla Gourmet.

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