Sunday, 15 May 2016
Amontillado VORS 1730 19.5%, Álvaro Domecq
Lightish copper-tinged mahogany through amber to a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Most attractive start with the crisp nuttiness of toasted almond and hazelnut, traces of turrón yema tostada, caramel on toast and faint oak notes. It is aromatic and elegant, very Amontillado.
Lively and fairly crisp and tangy with volatile acidity and comparatively low glycerine, so it is very dry but balanced by the sweet aromas mentioned above and perhaps a slight tobacco note. Clean and refined with little or no aggressive tannin and an open texture, it is long and charming.
Just to avoid any confusion, this is not a vintage 1730 wine nor is it from a solera of that date. It is a brand name - more correctly Line 1730 - which refers to the date always given as that of the foundation of Pedro Domecq, an extensive family to which Álvaro belongs. Actually 1730 was the date Patrick Murphy established his bodega which was left to Juan Haurie and taken over by Pedro Domecq nearly 100 years later. Anyway, Álvaro bought the old Pilar Aranda bodega in 1999 and this is from one of her soleras. This excellent wine is over 30 years old with an annual production of 3,600 half bottles a year.
20.50 euros per half bottle from Licores Corredera