Tuesday, 25 February 2014
Oloroso Don Gonzalo VOS 21%, Valdespino
Warm transparent amber/mahogany fading through yellow to trace of green at the rim, legs.
Pronounced and generous, amazingly fresh with walnuts, the aroma of oak which has aged noble wines, vanilla, traces of raisin, hazelnuts, marzipan, "bodegas"and Seville orange marmalade. A lovely nose with a slight sweetness which comes of maturity and also a small dash of PX.
Full, old, mouthfilling with that gentle sweetness which takes away any astringency from the wood, and which balances slight hints of raisin with the savoury side of the wine: walnuts, slightest traces Marmite and oak. It has a noticeable tangy acidity there too, which balances with the sweetness. There is a lot going on in the glass, a very complex, full and interesting wine with terrific length.
Valdespino run two parallel oloroso soleras: the Solera 1842 which is bottled a bit sweeter, and Don Gonzalo, a late XIX century solera which is the drier of the two with about 9 grams per litre sugar from the addition of a little PX. The grapes came mainly from Valdespino vineyards in the Carrascal, one of the oldest vineyard areas, and farthest from the sea, making it ideal for the production of Oloroso. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks, and the wine has been aged in solera for about 25 years.
UK retail about £30.00 (halves available). UK distributor Liberty Wines