Friday 20 October 2017

Oloroso 21.5%, Bodegas Fernández-Gao

Bright antique mahogany with copper glints fading to a hint of green at the rim.
Refined and fragrant, open and forthcoming. This is a classic mature Oloroso nose with nutty notes of walnut and toasted almond, cinnamon, traces of oak and a hint of dried fruits including a trace of orange peel. Pure and fresh, lovely, it defines the meaning of Oloroso.
Full bodied and generous, almost powerful up front, then it opens out and offers up those lovely complex nutty notes with a good texture and very little tannin for its age. It is very dry but rounded off by some glycerine and balances perfectly, so the serious becomes charming. The flavour lingers for ages with a very clean finish.
This is an excellent Oloroso. It comes from the newest bodega in Jerez - or is it one of the oldest? The original firm, whose origins went back to 1750, was bought out in the 1960s by McKenzie and the soleras absorbed into theirs. So the wines now available from the re-established company are not the same, but they are every bit as good if not better. They come, mostly from old family soleras of the Sánchez Gago family who are behind the new bodega. Anyway this wine has an average age of over 20 years and justifiably scored 94 points from Wine Enthusiast.
33.00 euros per 50 cl bottle ex bodega

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