Tuesday 10 October 2017

Contratiempo 2016 12.5% Cuatro Ojos Wines

Bright pale gold with silvery gold highlights.
Fresh, clean and fruity with aromas of apple, and traces of lime peel and sweeties, floral hints of jasmine and lily backed up by a mineral, saline twist which means it could be from albariza. There is a natural air about it and and a delicate charm.
It tastes very much as it smells, with a slightly fuller rounder body than expected. It is good and dry yet there is a passing suggestion of sweetness and it grows on the palate, gives of its best and then leaves a gentle, clean, fuity, minerally and really quite long finish.
This very attractive dry Moscatel wine is very young, not long bottled, and is still finding its feet. It is made in El Puerto de Santa Maria from organic grapes sourced in Chipiona. They are partly de-stemmed and fermented at controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, and after malolactic the wine is left to settle on its lees. It only undergoes a very gentle filtration before being bottled and labelled by hand. This is only the second release and consists of just 1300 bottles. I couldn't find a year on the cork or the labels (I found out having done some research, and, of course tasting it) and I do wish people would put vintages on their labels or at least an understandable lot number. There are various sound reasons for doing so, mainly so you know how old the wine is. It does the producer no good if someone buys a wine which has declined after sitting on a shelf for years. Obviously with this wine and certain others from the area, quantities are so small that the wine should have sold out before the arrival of the next vintage, but it can't be guaranteed. Also, it might attract customers if the grape variety were on the label. People want detail nowadays, and an explanation of the philosophy behind the brand name is not enough.
12.45 euros, De Albariza

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