Sunday, 11 May 2014

Manzanilla Pasada de Sanlucar 1/80 17%, Lustau Almacenista

Deep, slightly brassy/orangey gold, legs.
Big, complex and forthcoming, lots of savoury autolytic notes of Marmite, traces of wood, seaweed, salty, briney, and only the slightest hint of oxidation. Lots to occupy the nose here, big and aromatic yet has a crisp freshness.What a start!
Mid weight, a Manzanilla beginning to develop in the direction of Amontillado, some glyceric roundness yet bone dry and "punzante" (penetrating). Still pronounced Manzanilla character, strongly maritime, bitter autolytic flor, exuberant and unashamed, lovely.
The almacenista in question here is Manuel Cuevas Jurado, a wholesale grocer, whose bodegas are nicely situated just where the Guadalquivir joins the Atlantic. The firm was established in 1950, and is now run by his son Manuel Cuevas Galvez. They hold some 2,500 butts and are sole suppliers of Manzanilla in its various forms to Lustau. This wine is from a solera of just 80 butts.
Around £20.00 for a 50cl. bottle. UK importers Fields Morris & Verdin.

No comments:

Post a Comment