Deep blacky brown - burnt sienna - through amber and yellow to pale rim with a trace of green, legs.
Nose
Full and deep with damp old barrel notes, a pronounced presence of PX and an attractive oloroso behind. Serious wine of some age, a simple but clever blend which reveals the fine characteristics of its two constituents: old oloroso and old PX, each reining in the other, balancing beautifully and creating something special. There is a texture there from the PX and a structure and fragrance from the oloroso. Traces of gravy, coffee, caramel, walnuts and toffee.
Palate
Medium-sweet but the sweetness is not excessive, a beautifully balanced palate with texture, lots of flavour, tangy acidity and terrific length. A lovely wine and fairly unusual in style.
Comments
The Oloroso and the PX are already aged in separate soleras before they are blended. The blend is then further aged for 3 years in its own solera of only 33 butts in bodegas where the atmosphere is similar to the conditions export wines once underwent in sailing ships when used as ballast, subject to high temperatures and rolling seas. Many wines went to and fro the East Indies either as ballast or to improve them, or both, hence the name.
Price
£9.95 (50cl.) from Waitrose, UK agents FMV
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