Sunday, 31 January 2016
Oloroso Saca 2015 21%, Sacristía AB
Old natural mahogany with an antique patina, fading through amber to a hint of green on the rim with copper highlights and slow legs.
Intense and utterly charming with notes of wax, bitter orange marmalade, cinnamon, almost incense, and a trace of toasted almond and walnut. There is a rich glyceric quality: a certain unctuousness implying sweetness and a slight vanilla note from the oak, but that is balanced by a slightly more bitter woodiness inevitable in a wine of this age but still controlled. Charming but serious.
That touch of sweetness carries the wine through. It is a big full bodied wine and there is plenty of wood tannin and volatile acidity yet everything is balanced. Spices, dried orange peel and a very slightly burnt note only add to the complexity of a very old, noble and concentrated wine.
This beautiful wine was selected by Antonio Barbadillo Mateos from Bodegas Urium in Jerez and released at the end of last September. Urium has some wonderful old wines and this is an absolute charmer. It is the first wine Antonio has selected which does not come from Sanlúcar, and it is very old, at least 50 years and is bottled directly from the butt without any kind of filtration. Probably it belonged to the almacenista Josefa Pérez Rosado from whom Alonso Ruiz bought the bodega in 2006. It is sealed with a high quality driven cork and red wax.
Price60 Euros for a 50cl bottle.