Sunday, 24 January 2016

Manzanilla La Kika 15%, Bodegas Yuste

Fairly deep strawy brassy gold, looks to be en rama, some legs
Beautiful and deep, saline flor, olive brine and sourdough. It is quite full, very maritime and reeks of Manzanilla Pasada with the very slightest traces of rope, butter and nuts coming through which indicate that the flor is getting thinner and that air is beginning to influence the wine. If ever a wine smelled of its place of origin, this is it.
Deep and really quite intense, with great presence, olive brine, sea salt, hints of almond, a decent acidity gives it a tang, and there is a hint of autolysis, all of which adds up to a complexity which is amazing for 8 years of age, and the flavours go on and on in a soft round finish with a bitter flor edge.
This wine is beautiful but serious stuff. It comes from selected butts in the first criadera of a 400 butt solera with 9 criaderas over a century old in the bodega Santa Ana, right where its owner lives. It is only bottled occasionally and in tiny quantities, mainly for family and friends. It is nearly 11 years old yet still retains flor all year round and is thus a Manzanilla pasada, a lovely stage, and it is bottled en rama, 1,000 bottles per October saca. The bottle is a one-off and it even has a tiny spout, along with a long stopper cork which gives a great seal. The wine is named in homage to Francisco's mother, Francisca Brioso, whose portrait appears on the label.
25 Euros. Not easy to obtain.

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