Saturday, 2 January 2016

Amontillado 17%, Bodegas La Cigarrera

Quite pale for Amontillado, strawy- gold, young looking but with a little more depth than a Manzanilla, legs.
Young, slightly oxidised Manzanilla with slightly salty oily nutty rancio notes and still hints of fruit which are very slightly raisiny, more like a wine from a criadera than a solera. Unusual maybe, but yet has undeniable charm with slightly strawy marine notes.
Smooth and quite light and delicate with a gentle tang yet well rounded with a touch of glycerine which gives a very slight sweet note, though the wine is dry. Those oxidative notes are still there and start exerting their charm. It has the body of an Amontillado though, just not the age we’re used to. There is nothing wrong with that, of course, and it is refreshing to come across such a young one, especially with its slightly rustic character.
An interesting wine from this small family bodega in Sanlúcar’s Barrio Bajo. It is different and it is good. It shows what oxidation smells and tastes like in the early stages to anyone who doesn’t know and would be great in a tasting showing the development of Manzanilla towards Amontillado. And it is fantastic with various pâtés including olive ones.
8 Euros ex bodega.   

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