Sunday, 10 January 2016

Amontillado Oñana 19.5%, Garvey

Beautiful mahogany to chestnut colour with copper highlights fading through yellow to a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Forthcoming, pronounced and charming, ethereal, sweet and nutty - toasted hazelnuts and almonds in caramel with the slightest hint of oak and even slight orange and cinnamon notes. This is  archetypal Amontillado on the nose, a wine matured to perfection.
Starts off full bodied and the alcohol is noticeable but calms down and evolves into that ethereal character of the nose. The nuttiness and wood come through with hardly any tannin and are gently smoothed off by the glycerine. Fantastic length: it just goes on and on leaving nutty, slightly bitter flavours which I would swear derive from flor.
This delightful and classic Amontillado is a member of Garvey's Sacristia de Garvey Range all aged from over 15 years and which are limited editions with numbered bottles (this is no. 14523). The solera was established by Patricio Garvey Gómez, son of the founder William Garvey, in 1834 from carefully selected butts of San Patricio and the wine is close to 20 years old. Age of the wine is one thing, the age of the solera is another and this shows the complexity offered by an old solera. Peñín gives it a deserved 93 points.
26.40 Euros from Licores Corredera in Jerez. I have seen it around at more than double that price so take care if you're buying it - which I suggest you do.

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