The process of adapting the Sherry and Manzanilla regulations to
changing times is well under way, but still to be concluded. While
Fedejerez, in their annual summing-up of the year on Thursday, asked the
membership for patience to see the results of what is happening in the world of
Sherry, the Consejo Regulador, in its own summing-up yesterday referred to it
as one of the main projects in the sector.
There has not been enough time in
2018 to reach agreement on outstanding and important matters such as merging the
production and crianza zones, the suppression of Fino from Sanlúcar
and the incorporation into the DO of the new white unfortified wines and old native
grape varieties among other matters which the commission appointed by the Consejo
is looking into. However much groundwork has been done which provides a sort of
road map for the direction Sherry will be going in for the coming decades and
especially now since everyone seems to have taken on board that the times of
BOB and volume at ridiculously low prices have gone.
The Consejo firmly believes that
the changes to the regulations offer “a unique opportunity which cannot be
missed to establish clear rules and focus on an image of quality“ says Consejo
director César
Saldaña, who is confident that these matters will reach a conclusión this
coming year. He admits that the revision of the regulations has “not advanced
as much as had been hoped” – Fedejerez had hoped it would be concluded before
the end of 2018 – but he says that these are complicated matters which need
much negotiation. As the work of the commission has now been done, the ball is
in the court of the various trade organisations whom the Consejo is urging not
to delay decisions.
The modification of the
regulations indirectly affects the Bag in Box which has been in the limelight
recently with the High Court ruling which backed the Consejo and Fedejerez by
banning the sale of Sherry and Manzanilla in this container. If the merging of
the crianza and production zones goes ahead, and assuming the appeal lodged by
the Bodegas Artesanas of Sanlúcar and the Junta´s Agriculture
Department is rejected, the ban on the use of the BIB would extend to the
production zone which can currently use it. This is one of the incongruencies
which it is hoped will be eliminated by the changes to the regulations.
Looking towards 2019, definitive
sales figures for 2018 are not yet available, but will certainly reflect the
continuing downward trend in export sales volumes particularly in the
traditional markets like the UK, Holland and Germany, thanks to the gradual
disappearance of BIB. While the Spanish market is holding its nerve, the
Consejo is going to incorporate into the figures of wine leaving the bodegas
new data on average price which will give a more approximate idea of the real
picture in the sector in which there is a sense that falling volumes are being
compensated for by increased value.
In his summing-up of 2018,
Saldaña points out that the sector has reached concensus about the new
promotional campaign for Sherry centred on Madrid and London in which the
message will now be aimed directly at the consumer. This is not to say of
course that those who promote the wine like sommeliers, chefs and wine experts,
who have done much to recuperate the prestige image of Sherry, will be left
aside. But the focus for now will be on the consumer with whom perseverance is
needed to get the message through and so the campaign will continue for two
more years, and in January the impact of the first two waves of the campaign will
be revised.
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