24.1.17 Sherry Sales Grow Over 3% in Spain

In a local Ondaluz television interview yesterday, Consejo president Beltrán Domecq said that sales of Sherry had increased by between 3 and 4% in the last year. Globally around 50 million bottles were sold with 70% going for export. Spain is now the largest market. Spain and Britain between them account for about 50% of all sales, but he was disappointed that consumption in Spain is mostly Fino and Manzanilla and sales of other styles are practically non-existent despite there being such a large range of wines of the highest quality and very special characteristics.

A still from the interview (foto:andaluciainformacion)

To deal with this he called on the bodegas to increase spending on promotion of their own wines as in his view they are not spending enough. He expressed delight however that Sherry is in vogue which means that it is attracting new consumers in the important markets such as Britain. Nevertheless he lamented the fact that too many Sherries are being sold at a price below that which they merit.

29.7.16 Beltrán Domecq: All Styles of Sherry

The president of the Consejo Regulador took advantage of his discourse at this week’s summer course at the International University of Andalucía in La Rábida (Huelva) to ask people to think again about Sherry and leave behind the stigma of it being a wine for drinking in bars or an aperitif. He has promoted Sherry as a multi-faceted wine which should be treated as such and not just seen as an aperitif, and it should be drunk from a wine glass, not a tasting glass.

He said that Sherry has a great affinity with gastronomy and is the perfect match for typical Andalusian dishes such as gazpacho, shellfish or white fish. He also regretted that there are wines from the Sherry DO which are hardly known or consumed in Spain yet in other countries like Britain and Holland they are widely consumed; these are the blended wines Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.

To restore the value of this great wine he stressed the importance of demonstrating that it has as much diversity as there are vineyards in the DO, giving it an enormous range of nuances. He also stressed the role of the Consejo in promoting Sherry, boosting education of sommeliers, ensuring Sherry appears more on restaurant wine lists, something which could be financed by selling the wines at the price they deserve and not selling them too cheaply.

Before his discourse, Beltrán outlined to his audience the different types of Sherry: the dry palomino wines Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado and Oloroso, the sweet wines made from Moscatel or Pedro Ximénez and the blends thereof. He explained the climatic and quality factors which affect each Sherry harvest and the unusual ageing process in American oak butts in cathedral like bodegas with high rooves and grit floors which keep a steady temperature of 20 degrees.

Also present was one of the great Sherry figures: Pilar Pla, who at 90 years of age recalled how difficult it was for her to run her bodega El Maestro Sierra in a world dominated by men, as it was then. She had to prove that by hard work and considerable tenacity she had what it took before they would accept and support her. She said that her bodega owed its success to her team of employees and that she had no intention of retiring and would continue running it as it is she who keeps it alive.

1.7.16 Beltrán Domecq Re-elected Consejo President; Estévez Launches Table Wine

After the Consejo elections on the 17^th June all those elected were sworn in at a plenary meeting today. Beltrán Domecq continues as president and his new vice president is Salvador Espinosa, president of the cooperative Las Angustias and owner of Diez-Mérito. Now that the elections are settled the result goes to the Junta agriculture department which will publish it in an official bulletin.

Things are looking up in Jerez and the election of the president and vice president are seen as a signal of burying the hatchet and giving a new impulse to Sherry. The growers are united in defending their interests, in particular recognition of the value of the vineyard, from which the sector has for decades simply sought volume and homogeneity. Now it is the other way round and it is being recognised again that not all vineyards are the same and not all the grapes are the same quality. The market is prepared to pay for that quality and any increase in price must reflect back on the vineyards, as currently they are no more than covering costs.

Grupo Estévez has launched a new table wine, Ojo de Gallo, which is made from 100% Palomino grapes from vines of over 20 years of age in the firm’s 256 hectares of vineyard in the pago Macharnudo Alto. This new wine evokes the minerality which derives from the albariza soil of this iconic pago and has a decent level of acidity to carry it through. Fermented with selected local yeasts and aged six months in tank on its lees, it is a classic example of what Palomino can do. RRP @ 7€ in Spain.

6.4.16 I Muestra del Fino y la Manzanilla

To get people into the mood for the huge quantities of Fino and Manzanilla they will be drinking during the feria season, Beltrán Domecq last night gave a presentation on these complex, diverse and interesting wines at the Museo de Carruajes (coach museum) in Jerez. Sponsored by the newspaper ABC, Williams & Humbert, Barbadillo, La Guita, Barón and Delgado Zuleta participated with wine while Biga bakeries and Grupo TGT the cheese specialists and Señoria de Montanera the ham specialists also participated. The event attracted  was a large turnout of bodega and horeca people.

10.2.16 Consejo Elections to be Held 29 April

At this Friday’s extraordinary meeting of the Consejo it will be proposed that the elections take place on the 29^th April, the day before the start of the Feria. Another meeting will be called in mid-May for the new representatives to take their seats and they will elect the president and inform the Junta. As things stand there are no other candidates, so unless he were to resign, Beltrán Domecq is likely to be re-elected for 4 years.

What with recent tensions over BIB he has demonstrated his flair for diplomacy and dialogue as well as his passion for Sherry, making him one of its principal ambassadors both in Spain and abroad. The equivalent meeting for Brandy de Jerez will take place in parallel with the Sherry meeting and it looks likely that current president Evaristo Babé will be re-elected. He is also president of Fedejerez, the association of bodegas, whose representatives can now only speak for their principal activity even if their bodega owns vineyards, thanks to new rules from the Junta.

19.9.15 V Great Sherry Tasting

This outstanding event took place last Monday in London and was attended by over 300 members of the wine trade. Nearly 40 producers were represented by over 20 UK importers, so there was no shortage of interesting Sherry. Record numbers attended the three masterclasses: Biological and Traditional Ageing and En Rama Sherry both by Beltran Domecq, and Sherry, Chocolate and Cheese by Sarah Jane Evans who is chair of the Institute of Masters of Wine.

Beltran Domecq imparts his masterclass on En Rama wines (foto:drinksbusiness)

There was a tasting of Sherry cocktails which provided interesting twists on classic cocktails: Negroni, Bamboo, Bloody Mary and G&T showing just how well Sherry acts as a mixer. The same day saw the launch of The Great Sherry Festival which runs till the 27^th and which entails all sorts of Sherry-based events promoted by over 40 UK wine merchants. Then from the 2^nd till the 8^th November there will be International Sherry Week, a worldwide celebration of Sherry. ¡ Salud !

10.7.15 Q & A with Beltran Domecq; More on 100% Jerez

After yesterday’s Desayuno Informativo with Consejo president Beltrán Domecq in Jerez there was the chance to ask him questions. The majority of them focused on the recent announcement from Grupo Estévez that they intended to distil Palomino for fortification spirit thus making their Tio Mateo brand 100% Jerez. The president declared that he disagreed with this and that “all wine certified and supported by the Denominación de Origen (DO) is 100% Jerez.”

The wine producers were well represented and asked various questions on the current position, about such matters as supply and demand, grape prices, the possibility of promoting Sherry from DO to DOC, the proliferation of bag-in-box, all matters in some way related to the Estévez announcement which seems to be generating an element of unease. For Beltrán Domecq the debate on 100% Jerez is closed since everything in a bottle of Sherry is produced locally except a tiny proportion of fortification alcohol which has been used historically to stabilise wine for export.

He feels that if a producer wants to distil excess Palomino grapes into fortification spirit that’s fine, but it makes little sense from the technical point of view since the alcohol currently used has a strength of 95-96%/vol which is the maximum obtainable from distillation and is extremely pure – unlike in the case of Port, where the spirit is only 77%/vol. In other words the Sherry bodegas have always bought alcohol from the distilleries in La Mancha which is clean, pure and neutral and does not alter the characteristics of the wine – fundamentally its flavour.

Sr. Domecq went on to say that a wine such as that proposed by Estévez can’t be made overnight.  It will take years from fortification to final bottling due to the solera system. He also pointed out it would be difficult to certify, and that the debate was unnecessary given the more important challenges facing Sherry.

On the matter of a DOC, the president said that the Consejo had considered it and shelved it. The door is not closed, but there is a problem and that is that the bodegas would have to be dedicated to the production of Sherry only, meaning that brandy, table wine or vinegar would need to be moved to other bodegas, and this would be very costly, especially in the current situation.

Another question was about the fact that Fino can be produced in Sanlúcar, but Manzanilla cannot be produced in Jerez. This matter has been fully debated at the Consejo but due to a lack of agreement it was archived. The president’s view is that “It is obvious that the wine of Sanlúcar is Manzanilla, so there can’t be Fino of Sanlúcar, so the regulations would need to be adjusted.” On the subject of containers he said that bulk Sherry can only be sold in containers of one arroba (@ 16 litres) therefore bag-in-box is illegal and is not supported by the DO.

Many non-trade people asked questions too, and a local councillor who wondered why a Sherry label does not carry a bottling date. Beltrán Domecq did not reject the idea saying that some bodegas already print a “use by” date and always to drink Fino and Manzanilla well chilled.

He expressed his admiration for the growth of the tabancos who bring Sherry culture to young people, but lamented the mistreatment of Sherry on wine lists – even in Jerez – something he is working on. He wound up with a recommendation, one which not a few took on board, fried eggs with ham and a glass of Amontillado “which is what I feel like right now!” (at eleven in the morning).

10.7.15 Informative Breakfast with Beltrán Domecq

“People need to be made to understand that Sherry is a wine and not a spirit.”

Beltrán Domecq, an oenologist who is considered to be one of the great Sherry men, was speaking yesterday at the Hotel Jerez on the present and future of Sherry at the Desayunos Informativos (informative breakfasts) organised by the publisher Grupo Joly and sponsored by Banco Santander.

The Consejo is celebrating its 80^th anniversary. It has been a long journey in which much has changed, but the purpose for which it was established has not: its fundamental dedication to the certification, protection and promotion of Sherry. 80 years on, it is facing new challenges in a much more competitive global marketplace. The institution’s president, Beltrán Domecq, is appealing for a strategy to be put in place for what he considers the “best wine in the world to continue to be a source of wealth for many years to come.”

Contrary to what might be thought, the Consejo president’s powers are limited and he has no magic wand to solve the problems of the sector, but he highlighted the intensive promotional work of recent years, saying “I firmly believe that the future of Sherry will be played out in the marketplace and not in offices.”

Beltran in full flow (foto:diariojerez - published by Grupo Joly)

After offering a few facts on the internal workings of the Consejo and some trade statistics, he went on to analyse the actual situation and the tools available to the sector to consolidate recent advances, sketching out a better future for Sherry. The president has a “feeling” that the trend has been changing over the last couple of years, and improved prices for Sherry have led to increased turnover despite reduced sales volume.

Furthermore, the president pointed out that the wine trade encompasses other associated activities which also generate wealth, for example the distribution of other drinks and food products or wine tourism, which attracts about half a million visitors to the area. Then there are the more intangible things among which he mentioned the wine as a sign of cultural identity and the principal means of international recognition of the area.

The evolution of sales of Sherry and its consumers demonstrate some of the main challenges and opportunities the sector faces, and they are not without dangers. Sr. Domecq explained that although Spain is the principal market, nearly half of the rest goes to the traditional European markets which prefer the sweeter styles like Cream, Medium and Pale Cream, but think of it more as a liqueur than a wine. On this point he considered that the sector must promote Sherry more and more as a wine. “We must link our product to the grape, to the vineyard, to gastronomy and everything to do with wine. While this might appear obvious to many, the positioning Sherry as a wine in the eyes of consumers and professionals still needs work.”

There are three types of Sherry consumer. The” traditionals”, among whom there are many women over 55 years of age who see Sherry as an aperitif but also drink it at other times of day, however their numbers are declining. The “Occasionals” consist of both sexes who drink it at fairs, celebrations or in cocktails. Then there are the “experts” who also consist of both sexes but are younger and drink it more often and more like any other white wine, but preferably with food.  Sr. Domecq encouraged the targeting of promotion towards this group which has a better grasp of the versatility and variety of Sherry, a wine which can sit with you at the table and be drunk from a more suitable glass than a copita or tasting glass.

Now that Sherry has set out again on the path of growth in value and in the hope of increased sales, the president defended “the need to define a strategy based on the criteria of identity, quality and profitability,” to consolidate recent progress and allow Sherry to continue to generate wealth for years to come. Among the proposals which could contribute to positive change, Sr. Domecq backed the incorporation of profound changes to the regulations, paying special attention to the need to make the traditional premium wines compatible with the development of other products aimed at the volume sector. The idea is to segment the range of styles taking advantage of the value of the brand “Sherry” and its implicit quality.

The president encouraged the trade to concentrate its efforts in defining what the Sherry which conquers the future should be like, its categories, types and requirements, always in accord with consumer opinion. At the same time he underscored the importance of the leading role played by the premium Sherries with their thoroughbred Jerez values of the vineyard, the ageing period etc.

He also pointed out the importance of exploring increased communication: “how to communicate with consumers, where to apply collective effort and with what message”, aspects with which the Consejo and other trade organisations are already working.

“Personally, I must say that I have loved Sherry since I was born, and that as an oenologist I am convinced that our wine is the best in the world,” declared Beltrán Domecq, who is optimistic for the future with the conviction that “ if we work together, the wines of Jerez will achieve the success they deserve.”

An Interview with Beltrán Domecq

The president of the Consejo Regulador has been in Edinburgh for the first screening of El Misterio del Palo Cortado. I was lucky enough to spend an hour or two with him discussing all things Sherry and tasting some Palos Cortados, no fewer than eight in fact. He is a most delightful man and knows more about Sherry than one could imagine there is to know, so you can guess what an honour it was to sip fine Palo Cortado and talk about Sherry. 

We covered a wide range of subjects, far too many to cover here, but here are the main ones:

Finos and Manzanillas en rama and whether bottle age is good or not. Most labels will urge you to drink them super fresh, but Jesús Barquín of Equipo Navazos is convinced that they, like any other fine wine, will age well in bottle. Certainly I have enjoyed many which have spent some years in bottle, and their development seems to impart more oxidative and olive brine notes, but I (and friends in the trade)still enjoyed them – as much out of interest as for the flavour. Beltrán felt that they were over oxidised, and that they were already much older than most wines before they even went into bottle, and that was enough. As to the oxidation, I wondered where it came from, given that recent tastings of I Think were from dark bottles correctly stored out of the light in a cool cellar with Stelvin screwcaps. He reckoned that it partly depended how they were bottled, whether or not inert gas was used on the bottling line, and partly the effect of bottle age. We may have to beg to differ on this one, but the more Sherry one drinks, the more one appreciates the amazing nuances of flavour these wines offer. Many people might say the wine is quite simply “off”, but to some of us it simply getting more interesting.

Then we discussed the work of Willi Pérez who is experimenting in a serious way with unfortified vintage Fino from the Corregidor vineyard. This reaches its alcoholic strength naturally as the grapes are picked later. Another experimenter is Ramiro Ibáñez who has been making Palo Cortado to sell at 2 years of age called “Encrucijado” using about 50% grapes no longer authorised. Neither wine can carry the DO label, but the Consejo is interested and pleased that young winemakers like these are in the area. Who knows yet what will come of it.

The “Presupuesto” or the Consejo budget. I ventured how impressed I was by the achievements of the Consejo with such a small budget, one eighth of that of Rioja. Sherry has tripled its media presence, the Consejo has opened an excellent visitor centre, Sherryfest, The Big Sherry Tasting, the Copa Jerez and much more is going on, not to mention the lovely Palo Cortado film and all the tastings which accompany it. Given that Sherry is a much more complex and multi-faceted wine than any other, with a tradition of elderly drinkers, it needs much more promotional work than most wines. It needs a larger budget but how can it be increased?

At the moment, the contributions from the sector come from the growers paying per kilo and the bodegas paying per litre. Beltrán felt that the (very low) price paid by the bodegas to the growers per kilo should increase so that it was profitable to grow grapes, and thus provide an incentive to grow better grapes. The bodegas could pay more, and while some spend considerable amounts on their own promotion, more should be encouraged to do so, ideally advertising generically in the process. More bodegas could involve themselves in promotion abroad with a presence at international tastings, which should increase sales and therefore budget contributions. It is not that González Byass (for example) are ubiquitous, but more that they make a real effort, and many more should be doing that – given their budgets.

Next we discussed “balance”. There is a positive air in the trade as sales of “proper Sherry” are beginning to take pride of place, especially in gastronomic circles. Slowly people are beginning to see how good and how versatile Sherry really is. Overstocks are reducing as the balance of supply and demand is now restored to where it was before the last boom. Stocks are maturing nicely and new styles have been introduced successfully over the last 20 years or so, such as En Rama, VOS, VORS, 12 Years Old and 15 Years Old which offer a prestige wine and attract connoisseurs.

The vineyards. Now that the excess vineyards have been grubbed up, the Consejo has undertaken a huge project to map and identify all the pagos within the Denominación de Origen giving more precision than before. Beltrán was cagey about the notion of introducing something along the lines of “Grand Cru” vineyards, at least for the moment.  He did, however support the idea of single vineyard Sherry, pointing out that even now, one or two genuinely are.

On the subject of Manzanilla and its legendary saltiness, we talked about the research of a couple of years ago undertaken by Aecovi which showed that there was more salt in Sanlúcar vineyards. Beltrán pointed out that this would only be the case in vineyards very close to the sea, and many are not. Besides, grapes for Manzanilla can come from anywhere in the zone, they just have to AGE in Sanlúcar. In the end it must come from the moist winds blowing through the bodegas.

There are more Women in the Sherry business now, and we agreed it is a good thing. There are some important winemakers like Montse Molina (Barbadillo), Paola Medina (Williams & Humbert), Ana Cabestrero (Maestro Sierra), Maribel Estévez (Grupo Estévez) and Carmen Romero (Aecovi).

Beltrán had brought some Palos Cortados to taste: (Tasting notes are already posted)

Palo Cortado Pedro’s Almacenista Selection (Cayetano del Pino for Majestic)

Antique Palo Cortado (Fernando de Castilla)

Palo Cortado Leonor (González Byass)

Palo Cortado Wellington VOS (Hidalgo La Gitana)

Palo Cortado Obispo Gascón (Barbadillo)

Dos Cortados VOS (Williams & Humbert)

Palo Cortado VORS (Bodegas Tradición)

Very Old Palo Cortado Blend Medium VORS (Harveys)

The evening was spent at Drinkmonger Edinburgh, where Beltrán very kindly gave an excellent general Sherry tasting after having given the staff a tutorial during the afternoon. He must have been exhausted, but everyone in Edinburgh, not least myself,  is extremely grateful to him for all he did, for us and for Sherry, and I am certain the “Beltrán effect” will have more people drinking and enjoying this wonderful wine: Sherry.

PS: His book, "Sherry Uncovered" is an essential title in a Sherry lover's library, and is available at Amazon and the Consejo Regulador. It is a revised version of the Spanish original "El Jerez y sus Misterios".

Misterio del Palo Cortado in Edinburgh

Just a reminder that the Edinburgh Film Festival will be showing the Misterio del Palo Cortado on Tuesday 23rd June at the Odeon 2, Lothian Road at 18.00. Tickets are a very modest £10.00 considering that the president of the Consejo Regulador, Beltran Domecq will lead a tasting of Palos Cortados after the screening, accompanied by Iberico pork tapas from Goya 23, Edinburgh's best Spanish delicatessen. For tickets go to www.edfilmfest.org.uk

Palo Cortado (foto:losgenerosos2014.blogspot)

Sr. Domecq is also very kindly hosting a Sherry tasting at Drinkmonger, 11 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh on Wednesday 24th at 19.30. Space is limited, so please contact the shop as soon as possible: 0131 229 2205 or bruntsfield@drinkmonger.com

These are two events which are not to be missed for any self respecting #Sherry Lover!

28.2.15 Beltrán Domecq – “Sherry Vineyards Need More Focus”; ¡Feliz Día de Andalucía!

In a recent interview with Decanter Magazine Consejo President, Beltrán Domecq, said that producers need to explain more about the vineyards from which their wines come. Consumers know something of the bodegas and solera systems, but need to know more about the work in the vineyards. He believes that there is untapped interest in the vineyards and their specific geological characteristics which could be printed on more labels.

“50% of the quality of a wine comes from the vineyard, and distinctions are very important. We have the solera system, but why not say if the majority of this particular Fino is from Añina, Carrascal or Macharnudo vineyards? It would help a lot. Some bodegas are already doing this, particularly in Sanlúcar. The Consejo is seeking to help producers by creating a central vineyard map as a reference guide. We are writing to everyone who has a vineyard asking which area they think they belong to.

Over the past thirty years the land under vine in Jerez has declined from about 22,000 hectares to just 7,000, reflecting falling demand for Sherry, but at least supply and demand are now back in balance. According to Beltrán Domecq the growers who remain are better able to invest in vineyard management, and are now receiving three or four times what they were before.

He also spoke of his respect for the “en rama” wines as well as the Consejo plan to promote Sherry and food pairings – as long as the proper glasses are used. “No schooners, please, Sherry is a wine!” he declared.

Beltran Domecq at work in London (foto:+jerez)

Sr. Domecq is in London for the XXVI Wines of Spain Trade fair and he conducted a special tasting on Wednesday for wine journalists. The Spanish specialist Master of Wine, Sarah Jane Evans was there too. The ideas was to capitalise on media interest in Sherry and hopefully thereby to transmit that to younger consumers. A further special tasting took place at the wine fair in the form of a Sherry and Food Matching Seminar with Beltrán Domecq and famous chef José Pizarro.

Happy Andalucia Day!

The 28th February is Andalucía Day, so be sure to raise a glass of Sherry to toast the finest place in the world! The coat of arms on the flag represents the Pillars of Hercules, and on the arch appear the words “Dominator Hércules Fundator”. The colours represent the countryside, the villages, the purity and hope of Andalucía.

10/10/14 Beltran Domecq Tasting, New App at Tio Pepe

Beltran Domecq has delivered a tutored tasting as part of the celebrations of Semana de los Mayores (Senior Citizen Week). It took place at the Consejo’s bodega, San Gines, and has become one of the most outstanding events of the Semana de los Mayores programme. Most of those attending grew up with a close relationship to the culture and development of Sherry.

(foto + Jerez)

Bodegas Tio Pepe has incorporated an innovative new application called Guideo into bodega visits. The app uses the latest geo-positioning and augmented reality technology on mobile devices. It is the first app to do so and it offers a great service to tourism. During a visit to the bodega the tourist can access a lot of information such as images, anecdotes, curiosities and videos at any point which show what happened there. You can even put yourself in the picture to add to the experience. The app, which is available free at App Store or Google Play and works on iOS and Android works offline and only needs to be online to download the app.

An example of the sort of image which one can see using Guideo App (foto + Jerez)

5.10.14 Bodegas Not Happy with Junta Proposals

The bodegas have rejected the Junta’s proposed limitation of their voices on the Consejo Regulador. (see post on 1.10.14) Fedejerez (the association of bodegas) talks of “discrimination” and “inopportune interference” which could spoil good relations in the trade. The institution which would be most affected by the draft proposals, it considers the Junta’s Consejeria de Agricultura proposal as “truly regrettable”.

According to the president of Fedejerez, Evaristo Babe, the Junta’s decision has a problem with the method and another with its background, against both of which they are preparing suitable arguments. The problem with the method is the lack of consultation and official communication with the concerned parties, in this case the various trade organisations, which only heard of the matter barely three days ago when the Consejo sent them a copy.

Although Babe does not think this was done with any malice, he says that the Junta’s clumsy “elephant in a china shop” approach could endanger good relations and certain projects which the trade is working on. As regards the background, he says that excluding 25% of the vineyards from the Consejo represents “unacceptable discrimination”, adding that limiting thus the bodegas’ representation would clash with the democratic workings and representation of economic and trade interests. It is thus “a grave distortion of the normal workings which, legally, could open up a front, and we will take the necessary steps”.

Beltran Domecq (l) and Evaristo Babe (foto Diario Jerez)

While for the bodegas, the change in the order of elections is of capital importance, the growers’ organisations are reacting more calmly as they have long thought the bodegas should only be represented either as bodegas or as growers, giving more equality at the plenary meetings.

Cristobal Cantos, secretary general of Asaja-Cadiz, which represents the interests of the independent growers of Asevi, holds that real equality among the various groups in the sector is “fundamental” and is conscious of the fact that relations have “advanced substantially” leading to “balance and a lack of tensions in the present legislature”. Cantos attributes this to the “magnificent management” of the Consejo president, Beltran Domecq, whom he considers the principal guarantor of parity, though this wouldn’t have existed among the voices had it not been for the intervention of public administration.

The proposed order will not directly affect the cooperatives of Aecovi, according to whose manager, Carmen Romero, it is a coherent and courageous rule and could be good for the working of the plenary. With better representation in the Consejo, the spirit of the trade should be to look for consensus and dialogue, and not impose one’s will because one has a majority. Recent elections were contentious, where the vote was weighted towards the vineyards giving the bodegas more power in terms of land held rather than number of owners. Let’s hope the new elections will run smoothly.

24.6.14 Sherryfest San Francisco Huge Success

The V Sherryfest in the USA has closed after enormous success. San Francisco hosted the festival between the 17^th and 20^th of this month, and was awash with seminars, tastings and food matching with Sherry at the heart, showing just how versatile it is.

Sherryfest began in 2012 in New York, the brainchild of wine writer Peter Liem, who said that the San Francisco event was an unprecedented success, the most successful so far and has awoken a real thirst for Sherry.

Beltran Domecq giving a seminar (foto Consejo Regulador)

The Grand Tasting hosted over 500 professionals who had the opportunity to taste 140 brands by the hand of their representatives or even oenologists. Such was the public uptake that pre-booking had to close long before the event. In the words of Beltran Domecq, president of the Consejo, who gave one of the seminars, “Sherryfest is a magnificent example of the interest that these great wines are inspiring in professionals from all over the world. It is very satisfying to have such a professional – and young – audience which feels true admiration for the quality we produce and for Sherry’s great worldwide gastronomic potential.”

7.5.14 Hidalgo Tasting; Award for Beltran Domecq; New bodega for Tradicion; Antique Fino

A tasting of Sherries by Hidalgo la Gitana took place the other day in the Corte Ingles department store in Jerez. It was led by the firm’s PR director, Miguel Gutierrez, and was well attended by the public.

Beltran Domecq Williams, president of the Consejo, has been awarded the “Personality” prize for his dedication to the promotion of Sherry by the magazine Mercados del Vino y la Distribucion.

Juaquin Rivero Valcarce, owner of bodegas Tradicion, which contains an important collection of art, has set up a bodega for the ageing of Fino in old bodegas in Rincon Malillo, in which there is a collection of old photographs showing the history of Sherry.

Antique Fino by bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla has been highly recommended and given 95 points by leading British wine magazine “Decanter” in its May edition. The magazine said “Thanks to extended ageing in oak, this powerful Fino is darker in hue than expected. There are signs of oxidation on the pungent salty nose, while the intense palate has layers of flavours with fantastic body and smoky roasted almond notes.”

9.4.14 Education for Sanlucar Youth; Madrid Sherry Festival; Prizes for GB and Beltran Domecq

Two new schemes have been introduced in Sanlucar by the Junta to provide a future and gainful employment for the unemployed. A little over 1 million euros is to be spent on teaching 50 young people in wine and vineyards and tourism. They will even be paid for their work.

The Sherry Festival in Madrid is a huge success. It is the biggest Sherry event ever held in Spain. No fewer than 700 professionals turned up at the Hotel Wellington yesterday, beyond the Consejo’s wildest dreams. Chefs, sommeliers, journalists and educators met up with some 200 Sherries provided by around 20 bodegas. The Consejo is delighted with the interest shown. Indeed, such was the interest that three top level tastings had to be extended to five. There are three themes: Sherry and Gastronomy, Finos/Manzanillas en Rama and VOS/VORS wines.

Cesar saldana and the mayoress of Jerez with oenologists in Madrid (Foto Diario Jerez)

Many Bars and Restaurants are putting on a menu maridaje (food matched with Sherry), wine shops are offering tastings and promotions, and many sommeliers and bodega people are participating. It is wonderful to see how popular Sherry is – so why do people not buy more!!

Beltran Domecq and Gonzalez Byass have been awarded prizes in the VII edition of the Business, Markets, Wine & Distribution awards. The president of the Consejo won the prize for Wine Personality in recognition for all he has done to promote Sherry, and GB’s president, Mauricio Gonzalez Gordon collected the prize for the firm’s contribution to the socio-economic development of the area.

The Lament of Beltran Domecq

 Chemist, oenologist, and above all one who continues the long tradition of bodegas, Beltran Domecq (Jerez 1946), president of the Consejo Regulador Jerez, believes that it is extremely sad that the consumption of wine in Spain has fallen during the last four decades from 60 to 20 litres per head per year. What is more painful than this fall, which has been less noticeable in Italy or France, is the lack of knowledge in Spain of this most natural of products, despite Spain being the world’s largest vineyard, with 1 million hectares.

This lack of knowledge affects especially the wines of Jerez with their centuries of history, to which Shakespeare dedicated verses, and which are as unknown in Spain as they are venerated abroad. For this reason, Beltran Domecq has set the Consejo the task of promoting them in this, the year in which Jerez is the European City of Wine 2014.

The Sherry vineyards produce 11 distinct types of wine which Domecq says have a versatility unique in the world, and are capable of accompanying the most difficult to match food, such as asparagus, artichoke or vinaigrette, not to mention meats, cheeses – even sushi - and are suitable at any occasion or time of day.

The Sherry district has closed the 2013 season with sales at 45 million litres, a drop of 4%. Sales in Spain, despite the spikes at Feria times, have dropped 2%, but still represent 30% of total sales, similar to the UK market to which Sherry has been exported since the XIV century, and which until the last few years was the leading market. Holland and Germany are in third and fourth places, followed by the USA, where last year sales rose by 11%, and Japan, where they even have venencia competitions, by 17%.

Sherry reaches the market with an average age of four years’ ageing, but there are wines out there with age certification of over 30 years – for around 60 euros. To Domecq they seem too cheap, when you consider that they are unique. He bemoans the fact that Sherry prices still resemble those of 20 years ago, and points out that the prestigious international press says that they are remarkable value for money.

Domecq finds it irritating that many bars do not serve Sherry as a wine, and pour it into the smallest glass they have, that people say it is terribly strong, when it is the same strength as most wines these days – although the older Sherries can reach 20%.

Sherry wines, which are solely made by natural processes can contain 700-1000 chemical substances, so it is wise to drink them with the intention of tasting them, and as with all wines, in moderation. These are healthy wines, he says, and to prove it he relates that his father, who drank up to three bottles of Sherry a day lived till 82 and died with a liver as healthy as a three year old. Domecq himself began tasting Sherry at 8 or 10 years of age with his grandfather, who taught him what it was, and how and how much should be drunk. This, he says, was an opportunity few other young people have, and now they drink liquor of questionable origin at botellones (drunken street parties).

Bringing up a child is done at home, and if they are going to drink, they need to be taught how, possibly with the addition of a little water, and that the purpose of drinking wine is to enjoy its flavour, not to get drunk. Sherry is a complex wine, full of mysteries, such as the flor, and to spread knowledge, Domecq has published a book (Jerez y sus Misterios – now available in English), because to know Sherry is to love it.

(Translated from El Mundo)

And by the way, Jerez 2014 has a website: www.jerez2014.es
There is also a Facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/jerezciudadeuropeodelvino

Do follow these, as there will be a lot going on while you are there - you will be there, won't you?!

24.10.13 Two New Publications: Beltran Domecq, Hot Rum Cow

President of the Consejo and oenologist Beltran Domecq has published a new book about Sherry. Titled "Sherry Uncovered: Tasting and Enjoyment", it is available from Amazon at £22.53. I haven't seen a copy yet, but I think it is a translation of his "El Jerez y sus Misterios" published a couple of years ago. If so, then it is worth buying. The primary focus is on tasting, but there is useful information on soleras, an excellent glossary and some very stylish recipes for dishes to accompany fine Sherry.

Hot Rum Cow is a quarterly magazine about the world of alcoholic drinks published by White Light Media in Edinburgh, and the latest edition has a very well written and very well illustrated special feature on Sherry. They went to some trouble - I know - I was involved. A visit to Jerez cast its inevitable spell as to the wonders of Sherry and they have published clear and accurate information on history, bodegas, food and wine matching etc. I think they have done a splendid job, and recommend it especially for those who are still a little wary of Sherry. Hot Rum Cow can be contacted at orders@hotrumcow.co.uk. It costs £5.00 and is well worth subscribing to.

Vintage Sherries at Williams & Humbert

It is not very well-known that W&H have a special section of their vast bodega set aside for the anadas, or vintage wines. This was done in 2004, not long after the firm moved into the old Internacionales bodegas.

The anadas, of which they are very proud, are single vintage wines which have not been involved with the usual solera system. The wines, selected from the best of their particular vintage, were fortified to 18% and simply left to age, untouched save for the occasional tiny sample taken, and have all evolved into Palos Cortados, Olorosos or Amontillados.

The first anadas were laid down in 1920, when the family put aside a butt to celebrate the birth of a new family member. They continued to do this, and in 1924 decided to make it a permanent custom, the wine always being from the same vineyard in the Balbaina.

Nearly every year since 1920 is represented, but there are difficulties: as the wine has been ageing statically without being refreshed - like it would have been in a solera. Thus the evaporation losses are considerable, and some vintages have had to be racked into smaller barrels, every 15 years or so, to conserve them. In fact it is reckoned that after about 70 years, the entire contents of a butt would evaporate.

Certain vintages are not in butts. The 1992 was never made due to a strike at harvest time. When little remains in the smaller barrels, the wines are bottled to preserve them. There is a wooden cabinet which contains 1926, 1930, 1933, 1938 and 1939. There is also a bottle there to commemorate the firm’s first centenary.

It is fascinating to observe how the wines have evolved – and continue to do so – over the years. They gradually get darker, improve in flavour and gently rise in alcoholic strength up to about 22%. For example, the 1930 was classified in 1957 as an “acceptable wine” and by 1965 it was classified as “viejisimo” (very old). They never stop developing. There is a fascinating discussion on this in Beltran Domecq’s excellent book “EL Jerez y sus Misterios” – he was involved with the classifications.

The complete W&H collection of anadas is unique in Jerez, and has been the subject of a successful study by the University of Cadiz to find a model for certifying the age of vintage wines with a view to doing the same for other very old wines. These wines are rarely drawn from the butt or bottled, but in 1999, the famous auctioneers Christies arrived in Jerez, and tasted the wines in the minutest detail. Some wine was bottled and sold at auction at an average of 250 euros a bottle. Subsequently two further auctions, in New York and Los Angeles took place, and then another in London.

There are a few other vintage wines around, notably from Gonzalez Byass, but the W&H collection is unique and very special – and something to look out for when you next visit.

27.3.13 Beltran Domecq in London

Beltran Domecq was in London last week and gave an interview to Drinks Business while tasting some good Sherries. He felt it was a shame that so many good Sherries are over filtered for long term stability and thus lack colour and flavour – what the bodegas have spent years creating. The “en rama” wines, however, with little or no “stabilisation” may have a shorter shelf life, but demonstrate just how good Sherry is. It is like tasting the wine direct from the butt.

He said that Sherry is moving from the mass market to its rightful place among fine wines. Newly available styles might complicate things in a little-understood market, but the producers are demonstrating individuality and making an effort to attract new “aficionados”. And it is not just with the finos that things are moving forward, but also with other styles and older wines.