When I studied
languages at school I was taught the difference between “active” and “passive”
moods, and this came to mind when discussing Sherry availability in the UK yesterday
with Helen Highley of criadera.com. Many Sherry bodegas have “representation”
in the UK which amounts to almost nothing. The importer has no sales force or
distribution beyond their own location, no promotional activity, and at least
one has no website. The wine is imported to fill a gap on their list. This
situation is no good for Sherry aficionados, always looking out for something
interesting, and no good for the bodega. This represents the passive mood.
Luckily the
active mood is here and there is at last change in the air. Yesterday afternoon I
had the pleasure of tasting some exciting Sherries with Helen and Roberto
Rodrigo of Goya 23, Edinburgh’s best Spanish deli. Helen had brought a range of
wines from two bodegas which she is importing in a small way (at first!) with
the idea of building up a range of interesting Sherries which she can retail
online to connoisseurs, or sell through carefully selected specialist wine
merchants. This is an entirely separate venture from Criadera which will in no
way affect its impartiality.
The bodegas
in question are Urium and Faustino González, both in Jerez, and it was
fascinating to see how the wines contrasted. Both had their distinct house
style, but how distinct they were, with Urium showing real polish and finesse compared
to the wilder racier style of Faustino González. Both bodegas make delicious
wines of unimpeachable quality, they are just different, and that’s what made
the tasting – indeed Sherry itself - so interesting.
From Urium were:
Fino en Rama (50cl, around 8 years old, saca May 2015)
Smooth with
traces olive brine and ever-developing flor
Amontillado (50cl, around 15 years old)
Very
elegant, quite fragrant and balanced, proper Amontillado
Palo Cortado (50cl, around 15 years old)
Very
attractive with a trace of cinnamon on the nose, elegant on palate
Oloroso (50cl, around 15 years old)
Fairly full
with savoury hint and trace of oak, some charm
PX (50cl, around 15 years old)
Velvety
with coffee, chocolate, fig and raisin, charming but serious
And from Faustino González:
Fino en Rama (half bottle, around 10 years old, saca April
2015)
Bursting
with flor zip
Amontillado en Rama (75cl, 18-20 years old)
Still notes
of flor (!) racy bitterness balanced by implied sweetness, unusual and exciting
Palo Cortado en Rama(75cl, 18-20 years old)
Even a
trace of flor here too, but hazelnuts on the nose and a slightly savoury, tangy
palate
Oloroso en Rama (75cl, 18-20 years old)
Savoury
notes, traces marmalade and cinnamon, generous and very fine
The online
service will be called sherryboutique.com
but will not go live for three or four months when Helen hopes to have all the
necessary arrangements in place. If all goes well she hopes to expand the
range, so watch out for this, it is a great idea and deserves support.
