Tuesday, 2 July 2019

Amontillado Fossi 1/3 Solera No 19%, Primitivo Collantes

Bright strawy amber with old gold highlights.
What a lovely nose! More intense that then the excellent standard Fossi, and a little older, yet it still retains some background vestiges of Fino like a slight bitterness from flor. Overall however the aromas are of finely honed oxidation with traces of caramel, overripe apple and raisin with hints of straw, toasted almond, tobacco and a hint of sweetness. It is lively and fresh with real character.
Quite full up front at first then it becomes lighter, fresh, clean and elegant with an attractive texture and, of course some of that dry albariza feel and a trace of salinity. That sweetness is all but non-existent, though there is a hint of glycerine - Amontillado often smells slightly sweet but isn´t - but there is plenty of nuttiness. Volatile acidity is low still giving the wine a younger feel along with that slight flor note. A delightful wine.
The standard wine from the solera Amontillado Fossi undergoes five years of biological ageing and then ten ageing oxidatively, and the result, the Amonrillado Fino Fossi, still has noticeable Fino notes. This outstanding wine comes from one of the three "botas no" which were separated out from the Amontillado Fossi solera for their superior quality and character and stored in the "sacristia", an area of a bodega where the finest old wines are kept. Over the years the butts are topped up only to replace the "mermas" or evaporation losses, rather than being run as a normal solera, and this allowed the wine to age more rapidly giving it more concentration and making it all the more special. Such sacas can only be done rarely and in limited quantities, and in this case it was bottled en rama. It is excellent value for money.
31.50 euros per magnum, Licores Corredera

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