Santi García and photographer Miguel Ángel González
of Diario de Jerez shadow Manuel Valcárcel, oenologist at Fundador, as the
grapes arrive at the lagares.
The lagares (press-houses) are working flat out
as thousands of kilos of grapes arrive constantly from the vineyards. Fundador
is processing six tons a day. Things have changed, and not only with respect to
mechanical harvesting, but also in the lagares where spotlessly clean equipment
can process the harvest more efficiently than ever before. Another advance is
the speed of transportation as it is very important that the grapes wait the
absolute minimum time for processing to avoid loss of juice and oxidation.
Before leaving the vineyard the grapes are
classified into grade A or B and only grade A will be used for wine production.
When they arrive at the lagar they are discharged into one of three stainless
steel hoppers with Archimedean screws which transport them to the appropriate
destemming and pressing plant. One hopper is reserved exclusively for grapes
arriving from the firm’s vineyards in the Pago Macharnudo, while the other two
receive grapes from their Pago Santa Barbara vineyards and those from
contracted suppliers. Fundador has eight horizontal rotating plate presses,
four of them exclusively for Macharnudo grapes.
Pressing takes about two hours and is divided
into three parts. The first pressing (or yema) releases 60-65% of the juice and
is the finest quality, destined to be Fino and perhaps fine Oloroso, the second
pressing (segunda yema) releases a further 20-25% of the juice and will produce
fuller bodied blending wine, while the third pressing is destined for the
distillery and will never be used to make Sherry. Now the juice (mosto) is
pumped to the temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation tanks. The must
ferments quite violently for the first four or five days, giving off lots of
carbon dioxide and growing in alcoholic strength. As the fermentation slows,
the mosto is racked into other tanks to finish the fermentation. This stage
needs careful attention to temperature and sugar levels and once complete, the new
wine can go to the sobretablas stage to begin ageing.
Manuel Valcárcel says that the grapes this year
are very healthy with good sugar levels which average about 12° Beaumé, and some
were as high as 13°. Fundador was the first Spanish bodega to win the IWC Best
Wine in the World for Harveys very fine old Amontillado VORS, and the grapes
came from the Macharnudo. Manuel says that this pago gives something special,
something other pagos do not, the grapes give incredible structure. It is for
this reason that Fundador makes such an effort to keep these grapes separate,
and can assure the customer of the quality, flavour and essence of the
Macharnudo.
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