Tuesday, 4 October 2016

Oloroso en rama Añada 2003 20.5%, Williams & Humbert

Amber-topaz in colour, old gold reflections, fairly pale for an Oloroso of its age, but then it is an añada, legs.
Pure Oloroso still showing a zestful youth if less intense than many solera wines, yet almost equally complex. The apple notes of early oxidation have worn off and instead there is a slightly tangy hint of dried apricot, so there is still a trace of fruit there, along with gentle nutty, leafy, forest floor, tobacco, damp barrels notes. It is very fresh, very attractive and very classy.
Full bodied and intense at the start and then all the subtleties come through. It has a lovely lingering nutty character and that instant oloroso charm: smooth, generous, open textured and easy going - yet complex too. There is a gentle (mostly non-volatile) acidity which adds to the freshness and carries through the flavour, finishing with a clean tobaccoey nutty elegance which goes on and on.
This delicious Oloroso was bottled in February 2016 making it about twelve and a half years old. These younger vintage wines in the Colección Añadas range - with the exception of the Fino - are comparatively pale and appear quite young, but it should be remembered that they are not blended with other wines with decades of oxidation which gives them a much darker colour and intensity on the palate. They are nonetheless intensely flavoured and seriously interesting. I'm not sure how many butts of each  there are - and they would all be slightly different - but it would be wonderful if these wines could be released again after say another five years, by which time one could have aged the same vintage in bottle to compare. What a brilliant project! 91 Parker points.
25.75 euros per 50cl bottle from Licores Corredera

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