Saturday, 7 June 2014

Palo Cortado Peninsula 19%, Lustau

Deep amber towards chestnut with coppery tints and the slightest trace of green at rim, legs.
Full with lots of hazelnuts and almonds and just a hint of walnut. Refined and with a certain sweetness like turron yema tostada, and just a hint of oak, lively and fresh with just a trace of Oloroso there. There is a slight savoury note, too, no doubt from the fino origins, but everything is beautifully harmonised.
Definitely on the Oloroso side, fuller, fatter than an Amontillado with  more oxidative character, walnuts in syrup and a touch of date. While the wine is dry, it does have residual sugar of nearly 5g/l which is noticeable along with the glycerol, giving a very rounded feel. This is nicely balanced by a very slightly tannic wood note. Quite sophisticated, well made and interesting with good length, but I wouldn't go quite as far as Robert Parker - see below.
Aged about 12 years, this is a lovely Palo Cortado from the firm's Solera Reserva range, awarded 96 points by Parker, who described it as "mind blowing".
17.75 Euros in Spain for a 75cl. bottle but available in UK for @ £20.00 from good wine merchants. UK Importer Fields, Morris & Verdin.

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