Tuesday, 18 December 2018

Ube de Ubérrima Miraflores 2017 11%, Bodega Cota 45

Pale bright strawy gold with golden highlights.
Very attractive, fresh and very natural, it really shows the slightly saline sea air at Sanlúcar and the very slightly lean appley aroma of the Palomino along with faint background notes of fresh herbs, but it has a little richness, generosity, about it too. Surprisingly it conjures up a blend with some of the breadth of a  Chardonnay and the taut fruit of a Riesling but with that coastal salinity, the stamp of Sanlúcar, and develops beautifully in the glass. It should do so very well in bottle too over the next couple of years.
There is lots of character here. It really expresses Sanlúcar with those salt, apple and faint herbal notes, and perfectly judged acidity helps to highlight them. This is a sophisticated, honest and interesting wine which could have been Manzanilla but makes a wonderful alternative. It is dry, clean, tangy, fresh, long with a slightly chalky texture, delicious and dangerously moreish, and is one of those wines you must buy more of to see how it develops.
This 2017 is the latest release of this excellent wine from the Bodega Cota 45 of Ramiro Ibáñez, and it is a gem. It is made from 100% Palomino grapes grown in five parcels, three in Miraflores Alta with predominantly tosca cerrada soils, and two in the Baja with mainly lustrillos and lentejuelas. The must was fermented in ex Manzanilla butts and aged in them briefly filled to the brim to exclude flor as he wants the wine to express the soil and the vintage. The word "uberrima" derives from Latin and means "abundant" or "fertile" referring, to the albariza and he makes another wine in an identical manner only it is from the Sanlúcar pago Carrascal, while a third from the pago Maina will be released soon. Cota 45 is the altitude above sea level where the best albarizas are to be found.
12 euros, Licores Corredera

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