Thursday, 6 December 2018

Pedro Ximénez Murillo 17%, Emilio Lustau

Transparent but very deep blacky walnut ink fading to amber, ruby highlights, very viscous.
Very fruity - dried fruits of course - with loads of grippy raisin, fig, prune and date wrapped up in toffee, but also serious with faint savoury traces, esparto, a hint of humid barrel and something of autumn leaves. Very harmonious.
Viscous and very sweet with the texture of pure raisin pulp but the acidity is noticeable and gives it a great level of freshness. Then the toffee side comes through with a hint of molasses and the faintest trace of licorice, but the overall character is very fruity, tangy and substantial with background sweetness. It has enormous length too.
This excellent PX was first released in 1996 in celebration of the centenary of the founding of the firm. It is named after the Bodega Murillo where the old PX solera is located and is a blend of wines from the finest butts in it. Only small quantities are released in a single annual saca and at an average age of 15 years. With a (natural) sugar content of over 400 g/l it is delightfully unctuous and is a dessert in itself, yet it has higher acidity than one might think (5.5 g/l at a pH of 3.6) which gives it some welcome freshness. (grams per litre of acid  - mainly tartaric - is a measure of the quantity of acid in the wine while the pH - or potential Hydrogen - is a measure of its strength, like volts and amps in electricity). It scored 94 Parker points and 93 from Peñín.
20 euros per 50cl, Licores Corredera

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