Wednesday, 28 November 2018
Amontillado 21%, Colección Roberto Amillo
Mahogany tinged chestnut with copper highlights fading through amber to a hint of green at the rim.
Lovely nose, forthcoming and fragrant with lots of toasted almonds and hazelnuts, turrón, traces of oak, tobacco and antique furniture with a glyceric note which rounds it off beautifully. It is a textbook example of fine Amontillado with considerable complexity and a great deal of charm with that classic gently implied sweetness which makes Amontillado so attractive.
Fairly intense and quite complex, beautifully rounded by that glyceric feel which balances out any more astringent oak notes, in fact there is a hint of sweetness but no more than that and very little tannin though there is a faint bitter hint which works well. Lots of nuts and hints of oak, it is an old wine yet without the slightly aggressive notes extended ageing can bring and has a very long, satisfying, dignified finish.
The Roberto Amillo Collection, or Espiritus de Jerez, is a range of top quality products from the Marco de Jerez selected by Roberto Amillo. Like the other marquistas (people who buy small quantities from the bodegas for sale under their own label) he scours the area looking for outstanding examples of their type, one butt at a time and having them bottled in his distinctive square bottles with their Gaudi-esque corks. This beautiful old Amontillado was sourced from bodegas Dios Baco. It is probably all of 30 years old but cannot use the Consejo VOS/VORS label as it is too complicated for small one-off batches. Besides, the name Roberto Amillo should be sufficient to guarantee top quality, and the price is very reasonable for that quality.
Price41 euros per 50cl, Licores Corredera