Tuesday, 28 June 2016
Palo Cortado Jauna 20%, Bodegas Garvey
Bright transparent coppery mahogany to amber at the rim with an almost imperceptible trace of green. legs.
Delightful, open and clean with some forthcoming wood notes: old oak butts with traces of old furniture and astringency followed by almond and walnut with a little volatile acidity then a hint of turrón and a trace of glycerol doing their best to balance things. Serious and old yet charming.
Some Palos Cortados lean towards the Amontillado and others towards the Oloroso. This is one of the former. It is elegant and polished with the wood and nut notes roughly balanced, and it is dry, with only just enough glycerine to cover the bones, but what classic bones; not over tannic, it has terrific length and leaves a feeeling of great satisfaction.
This lovely old wine comes from a solera established by the firm's founder William Garvey Power in 1817 and is one of the wines in the firm's Sacristia range. There is no question that it is very old but there is no VOS or VORS label on the bottle. Given the parlous state Garvey is in, it is probably simply not worth their while to pursue the qualification. But it is worth our while to seek out these excellent wines. Do be careful though; there are some much higher prices online.
A very reasonable 26.40 euros from Licores Corredera