Showing posts with label Williams Humbert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Williams Humbert. Show all posts

Monday, 19 August 2013

19.8.13 7 Kilo Bunch of Grapes! The Beatles in Jerez?

In the LIX edition of the Racimo de Oro (golden bunch) competition in Trebujena, 43 enormous bunches were presented, 34 Palomino and 9 Pedro Ximenez. The winner was a bunch of Palomino weighing 6.845 kilos presented by Manuel Marin Raposo. Palomino usually wins as the bunches are usually bigger. The Racimo de Oro is awarded to someone or some organisation who has done the most for Trebujena, and this year it went to the women’s organisation Doña Palomares Oliveros.

(Foto + Jerez)


If you visit Williams & Humbert you will see four butts signed by the Beatles in 1965. It has always been assumed, therefore, that they were in Jerez – and even that they played there. Unfortunately this is untrue. They played only in Madrid and Barcelona, but a shrewd W&H marketing man took some butts to Madrid, along with a venenciador, and they were signed there – at the hotel. John Lennon had a (not very successful) shot at the venencia. All this and more will be revealed in a forthcoming RTVE (Spanish TV)documentary.

(Foto JL Jimenez)



Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Dry Sack Fino 15%, Williams & Humbert

Appearance
Fairly pale bright light gold with some legs.
Nose
Forthcoming, plenty of flor: green almond, saline bitterness, plenty acataldehyde, trace olive brine and hints of quince, quite dry with a little weight.
Palate
Very dry, very slightly savoury, a little acidity, clean with pungent flor flavours; sourdough, almond, and really quite bitter with a certain tang. This one cries out for tapas - it really makes you hungry!
Comments
A really good Fino made from Balbaina grapes with virtually no residual sugar. Any unfermented sugars are, of course consumed by the yeast, along with glycerine, so Finos are genuinely dry. Try a glass of dry red or white after a glass of Fino, and they will seem positively sweet! Anyway this wine works its way through 6 criaderas, and is drawn from the solera with a minimum age of at least 5 years. That is about the age where complexity starts to make itself felt, and it is certainly noticeable here.
Price
I paid £12.75 at Harrisons Fine Wines in Crieff. UK importer Ehrmanns.



Sunday, 7 April 2013

Manzanilla Alegria 15%, Williams & Humbert

Appearance
Bright pale gold, light legs.
Nose
Dry and salty with some bitterness and traces of green almond, lots of flor and a definite air of the seaside. Reasonably pungent, as if not too much has been lost in "stabilisation", a trace of olive brine.
Palate
Tangy and briny, plenty flor bitterness and a little more body than some, a slight trace of oxidation, very dry with considerable presence and length and just the faintest hint of autolysed yeast, complex with a few pasada notes. This will stand up to some interesting food.





Comments 
An interesting wine, and a good one. Alegria translates as "joy"or "happiness" but the name may derive from the name of a vineyard. It comes from a solera with a comparatively small number of criaderas - (6?) It is a comparative newcomer to the W&H range, replacing the old W&H brand Cedro, and comes from soleras laid down by the bodega Hijos de A Perez Megia, an old family firm established in Sanlucar in 1821. They were bought out in the 1980s by Jose Medina y Cia., who went on to acquire a controlling stake in W&H. Another Manzanilla Alegria was once marketed by Jose Martinez of Jerez. Now, all the Medina Sherries are produced under the W&H name at the old Internacionales bodega in Jerez - except Alegria, which, as a Manzanilla, has to age in Sanlucar. {Interestingly another old Perez Megia brand - Amontillado Jalifa - is sold under the W&H label now.}
Price
About £7.00 (half bottle) from Henderson Wines, Edinburgh. (UK importers: Ehrmanns)

Thursday, 8 November 2012

As You Like It 20.5%, Williams & Humbert

Appearance
Quite deep amber fading through yellow to green tinged rim, some age apparently, legs.
Nose
Fragrant amontillado, quite nutty, a curious interplay between that implicit sweetness of amontillado and real sweetness harmonised in the wine over decades, beautifully aged - fresh with minimal oxidative or woody notes, a certain tang with slightest traces of dried apricot, vanilla and raisin, complex, lovely.
Palate
Medium sweet - if not sweeter -  but the sweetness is balanced by that tanginess and traces of tannin from the wood. It could do with less sweetness but it was made when this style was more the norm. Nonetheless, the flavour is not masked, and is that of genuine amontillado, with the characteristic toasted nuts flavour and terrific length.
Comments
W & H are famous for their excellent sweeter wines, usually made by solera ageing the blend. Many "Medium" Sherries are horrid pre-bottling blends made to a price. This is not. All that went into this blend was quality wine. And time. The blend was introduced by Carl Williams, second generation of the family, in early 1900. It comes from a solera of only 27 butts which has a bit of a story. In the days when the bodega was still family owned, it was decided to de-list the brand, but the then capataz, Manuel Offerrall, liked the wine so much that rather than dispose of it he had it hidden in among the Canasta soleras. His deception was only discovered 25 years later when the new owners, Rumasa, moved all the soleras to the new bodega. Francisco Salas Lopez, the "nose" of the bodega sniffed out these special butts which were obviously exceptional and not connected with Canasta, and informed the new capataz, Jose Luis Moreno Garcia. They figured out what had happened and a new brand was born. The wine is not sold as a VORS, but probably could be. It is certainly expensive enough! More than many VORS in fact, but it is lovely. And it is nice to see a more traditional label. 




Price
£ 23.99 (per half bottle) from Waitrose, also available from the Wine Society.

Sunday, 4 November 2012

Back from Jerez: 4


The next morning it was off to Williams & Humbert, on the edge of town but somehow near the centre as well. This is the biggest bodega in Europe, though you would never guess that from the front. It is a modern, even boring, industrial looking concrete complex from the outside, yet enormous on the inside, seemingly going off in all directions. Constructed in 1974, it is much cleverer than it looks from the outside, being a series of umbrella-shaped concrete castings which link together at the top. (see photo below)



It was built for Rumasa who wanted one vast complex in which to house the various soleras for the different bodegas they had taken over. One still remains, the excellent Don Zoilo (see Tastings). There is space for a museum of tools and instruments, a huge tasting area, room for horse shows, large private gatherings and flamenco. Here is housed the famous collection of Anadas going back to 1920, a vintage car, and a large shop - not to mention huge aisles of Sherry.


The bodega welcomes busloads of tourists, and was full of them, so there was nobody serious to talk with, but I managed to wander around unnoticed, taste a couple of wines and take in the amazing atmosphere.

Then it was off to Sanlucar to visit Barbadillo. It is a short drive on a beautiful day and I managed to park very near to the bodegas! They have a very interesting Museo de la Manzanilla upstairs above the formal entrance, which has many old vineyard and bodega implements, short videos, collections of old labels and bottles, and is well worth a visit. Back downstairs I met the technical director, Juan Guerrero Ferrer along with some of his staff and over a few glasses of the excellent Manzanilla Solear we discussed - at some length - Sherry and what is going on.


Most unusually for the Sherry area - indeed almost uniquely - Barbadillo is producing an excellent Sparkling wine, which they were first to produce. "Beta" is a traditional method sparkling wine made in the Sherry area from Palomino and Chardonnay grapes, and is probably the first sparkling wine produced in Andalucia, of which they are rightly proud. Then we discussed their wonderful, seasonally released Manzanilla en Rama. (The Autumn 2012 has just been released). It is a cracking wine, concentrated Manzanilla yet subtle and so fragrant and zesty. The very essence of Manzanilla. And it is only a part of their very fine range of Sherries.

The team at Barbadillo, Solear at the ready
Rosario, second from left in the picture above, featured in a recent Spanish television film about Sherry in general and Manzanilla in particular, which I happened to see a few days later. Felicidades, Rosario! What a delightful bunch of people - no wonder their wines are so good!

After a lovely day in Sanlucar, it was off back to Jerez for dinner and a glass of Sherry. Next day I was off to Malaga for a pre-opening visit to the latest bar-restaurant, Los Patios de Beatas. It is huge and beautifully set up in an old building right in the old city centre off the Calle Granada, and has tasting rooms, extensive bar, restaurant and entertainment areas for Jazz, Flamenco etc. The kitchens are state of the art, and the wine list is probably the best I have ever seen - it is immense!! Next time you are in Malaga, you have to go. This in itself is a very good reason to go! It is a difficult place to photograph, but the photo below should give you an idea of at least part of it.

The stained glass roof, Los Patios de Beatas








Sunday, 1 July 2012

News from Jerez 1.7.12

More on Beltran Domecq (b. 1946), new President of the CRDO Jerez, by his peers. He is diplomacy and gentlemanliness personified, a dandy of the wine world for which he was born, predestined for a career as a bodeguero and passionate about Sherry for which he professes a contagious devotion.

He hasn't a bad word for anyone, and no-one has one for him. Anyone who has had the privilege of attending a tasting given by him falls under his passionate spell of Sherry to which he refers as the "Mythical Wine". He speaks perfect English as his mother was English (a Wiliams from Williams & Humbert) and he is related also to the Gonzalez (Byass) family and of course Domecq. He is an enologist and a chemist and completed his academic education at courses in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Cognac. He began work at Williams & Humbert and later moved to Domecq, working in Sherry and brandy production along with commerce and PR.

The author of numerous articles and technical publications, not to mention his recent book "El Jerez y sus Misterios", he derived his passion from his legendary father Jose Ignacio Domecq, known affectionately in Jerez as "La Nariz" (the Nose - because of his brilliant tasting skills). He has travelled the wine world either learning about other wines or promoting Sherry. Sherry could have no better ambassador.

Monday, 28 May 2012

The Rumasa Saga: part 1

The Rumasa (RUiz MAteos S.A.) story deserves to be written by a skilled potboiler novelist, as it is filled with scandal, corruption, skullduggery - and even humour. It might even make a good film.

The undoubted leading man, or perhaps antihero, in the tale is Jose Maria Ruiz Mateos Jimenez de Tejada, born in Jerez in 1931 whose father, Zoilo Ruiz Mateos Camacho, had a small almacenista business of the same name originally established in Rota in 1857. Jose Maria was the more ambitious and business-like of Zoilo's sons, and from about 1960 quickly started building up the firm, which had by now moved to Jerez. It's consequent growth was quite phenomenal. So phenomenal, in fact, that nobody could quite believe it.

Most of part 1 of this tale took place under the dictatorship of General Franco, who by supporting the Catholic Church received its support in return, especially from ultra-Catholic Opus Dei. This is a group of mostly lay people who believe that ordinary life is a path to sanctity, and do charitable works, but it has been accused of secretiveness, elitism, and support for the right wing, not to mention cronyism. The Franco regime began a liberalisation of the economy in 1959 using many technocratic ideas of Opus Dei such as credit for business, help with export and redevelopment of deprived areas, but this only led to almost inevitable large scale corruption. Strangely, many members of Opus Dei benefited enormously, and our Jose Maria was only one. Rumasa could only have grown the way it did with state help. One of the Ruiz Mateos family was related to the Director of the Institute of Credit; the older sons of the Governor of the Bank of Spain worked for Rumasa.

In 1964, having badgered them for some years, Ruiz Mateos signed a deal with Harveys of Bristol to supply all the wine they needed for 99 years. He went to extraordinary lengths to prove to the Harveys executives that he could meet their needs. At that time Bristol Cream, and other Harveys brands were huge sellers, and RM could never supply all their needs, so another bodega was bought. The Harveys money along with credit was used to buy a bank to finance more bodegas and so on. In 1960 the company was worth 300,000 pesetas, and by 1969 it was worth 2000 million, and by the time of its demise it consisted of around 700 subsidiaries in Spain alone as well as others abroad, including 18 banks (he famously bought three banks in one day), 18 bodegas, construction firms, insurance companies, estate agencies, hotels, food and drinks companies etc etc. worth 111 billion.

The firm´s vineyard division, Viñedos Españoles, planted some 2,000 hectares in Jerez alone (bringing the total to 22,000 ha) and they controlled 33% of the Sherry industry and 25% of the Brandy industry. Rumasa´s hexagonal busy bee logo was to be seen everywhere. Other firms viewed Rumasa with considerable and justified suspicion; this was no longer the gentlemanly Sherry business of old and quality was being sacrificed for quantity. The big firms had an agreement that they would help each other in case of an attack by Rumasa. Its affairs were labyrinthine, and it was beginning to owe the tax man big time.

The global oil crisis of 1973 brought a dramatic reduction in sales and affected the Sherry industry decisively creating a situation of oversupply of some 46%. At that time 400,000 butts were being produced and sales were running at 270,000. This caused a price war which Rumasa was determined to win at any cost and Sherry was sold below cost forcing other firms to try and compete with many going bust and being bought up by Rumasa. When the government offered subsidies to promote exports, Rumasa exported vast quantities of wine, much of it of doubtful quality and whether it was actually sold or not, and stored it in warehouses in the UK. The Augustus Barnett wine retail chain, owned by Rumasa, had huge stocks of Sherry at knockdown prices. Things did not augur well for either Rumasa or the industry itself.

One nail in Rumasa's coffin came in the form of the takeover of Harveys by Showerings in 1965 and the purchase of the old bodega MacKenzie as a base in Jerez. Harveys were already suspicious of Rumasa and the exclusive supply contract was cancelled. Meanwhile International Distillers and Vintners (IDV) built a whole new bodega complex called Rancho Croft, using the name of their long-established Port subsidiary. Gilbeys (the oldest part of IDV already had soleras in Jerez at Gonzalez Byass). It was at Rancho Croft that the first pale cream sherries were produced and they soon provided stiff opposition to Harveys.

In 1983 the Socialist government of a newly democratic Spain decided to get the tax it was due, and expropriated the component companies of Rumasa, going through their books with a fine toothcomb and finding, needless to say, endless tax fiddles and a web of complicated interactions. Jose Maria fled to the UK and was later arrested in Frankfurt. For the next decade or so there was endless litigation - at one court case he appeared dressed as Superman - and he counterclaimed against the Spanish Government, seeking compensation. He was eventually, and controversially, absolved by the Supreme Court, but was refused the compensation he had bitterly contested for Williams & Humbert, which went to the Dutch firm Ahold. This was complicated by the fact that the Ruiz Mateos family owned the Dry Sack brand name while Rumasa owned the rest.

This was, apparently, the end of Rumasa. The component companies had been sold off by the Government back to the private sector, and life in Jerez returned to something like normal, though in fact much had changed. Many of the subsidiary bodegas had by now lost their individual identities, having been swallowed up by bigger concerns within the group, and many famous names disappeared. Names like:

AR Ruiz Hermanos.
Union de Exportadores de Jerez
Palomino & Vergara
Marques de Misa
Varela
Diestro Hermanos
Otaolaurruchi
Diaz Morales
Valderrama
Vergara & Gordon
Bodegas Internacionales


Those which survived more or less intact were:

Williams & Humbert
Garvey
Diez-Merito
Bertola
Pemartin