Could
Sherry be entering a new Golden Age? Writers in specialist publications are
paying homage to a resurgence in what they consider is the best wine in the
world and the trade, conscious of the opportunity, is working to recover lost
prestige and put Sherry at the forefront of the world wine scene once again.
It is a question
of price and not volume, and the statistics for the first two months of 2016
reflect that. Sales were down 13% or 3.8 million litres especially in export
markets which were down 18% compared to the domestic market at 3%. Over half a
million litres less was sold, 400,000 litres of this was due to the traditional
European markets, and especially Germany which saw a drop of 57%. The UK looked
better with a drop of only 1% while Holland grew by 0.17%. The drop in Spain,
which has consolidated itself as the largest market, was 42,000 litres. The
trade is not too worried however, as these figures could be reversed with the
onset of the spring feria season in Andalucía.
Looking at
the last 12 months, sales were 35.5 million litres or 1.2 million litres less
than the previous 12 months, a drop of just over 3%. In the same period 11.5
million litres were sold in Spain, a drop of 0.78% while exports amounted to 24
million litres, a drop of 4.2%. While Germany is the big worry, there is hope
in the UK which is the largest export market, and where after years of decline
10 million litres were sold, a drop of barely 1.8%. Holland is also looking
more hopeful with sales of 7 million litres and growth of 7.75%.
The bodegas
of Jerez have learned a hard lesson. Sales continue downwards and there is no
sign of any change in this trend in the short term but there is an increase in sales
of Bodega brands at the expense of BOBs which signifies loss of volume but an increase
in price. This is borne out by report from ICEX (the Spanish Institute for
Foreign Trade) on sales of Spanish wine for the last year which shows a drop in
volume of 2.4% for liqueur wines, of which Sherry is one, but an increase in
price of 1.5%.
Sherry is
approaching the crossroads where traditional older consumers of BOBs and sweet
styles are dying out and new younger consumers with purchasing power are driving
growth in proper Sherry in all its forms such as Añadas, en rama and VORS,
which are much more profitable. According to the Consejo, when these lines
cross is just a matter of time as the “wine for grannies” dies out while
younger consumers drive growth of more interesting wines. Spanish customs
figures for 2015 demonstrate this with export clearances for liqueur wines,
most of which are Sherry, down to 20 million litres – half a million less than
in 2014 – but with a value of 65.7 million euros – one million more than 2014. According
to the report the average price of Sherry increased from 3.11 euros per litre
to 3.23, an increase of 4% while the total for all wines from Spain saw a
decrease in value of 3% to only 1.08 per litre. Liqueur wines have managed to increase their price for
four consecutive years giving an accumulated increase of 11%.
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