Saturday, 12 April 2014

PX Triana 15%, Hidalgo La Gitana

Almost black through very deep burnt umber to yellow at rim, viscous with pronounced and slow legs.
Treacle toffee, prunes and dried figs, rich and deep with just a slight savoury note of walnuts in syrup and damp barrels. Remarkably fresh and textured; you can just smell the grape pulp! There is also an air of Christmas pudding here, with its dried fruits and a slight trace of spices.
Very viscous and intensely sweet, yet there is an attractive balancing tang of oak, acidity and even a little tannin. Prunes, figs and raisins predominate along with very slightly salted toffee and that walnut note, even a hint of pepper. Luscious and very long and very characterful.
Hidalgo have an annoying habit of having different versions of wines. There is also a Triana 30 year-old VORS, but this is the "ordinary", younger version. Wine from this solera,which  is used to sweeten the Alameda Cream, and thus limits the quantity available, averages 18-20 years of age. Triana is a district of Seville, traditionally a gypsy neighbourhood, but now rather trendy. Rodrigo de Triana (who features on the label), was a sailor who went to the Americas with Columbus, and was the first to sight the New World from the crow's nest.
Around £15 per 50cl bottle. UK distributor is Mentzendorff.

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