Saturday, 19 April 2014

Manzanilla Amontillada 1/21 17.5% Lustau Almacenista

Bright golden amber with slightest trace of green at rim, legs.
Full and super-complex with pronounced flor characteristics such as bitter salinity, tarry rope and traces of Marmite from autolysis, but the bitterness is tempered by the softening effect of oxidation and sweeter aromas of hazelnut and almond. Truly in between Manzanilla and Amontillado, and quite lovely.
Mid weight, the half-way-house theme continues, intensely flavoured and quite tangy with those autolytic and oxidative notes. There is a slight feeling of fleeting sweetness from the small amount of glycerol from ageing, yet it is bone dry. Amazing intensity and length, it just goes on and on developing. Beautiful.
From Lustau's Almacenista range, this is an absolute gem made by the Almacenista Manuel Cuevas Jurado, who also makes the Manzanilla Pasada which Lustau bottle. It comes from a tiny solera of only 21 butts, and is quite a rare style of wine. Its age of about 15 years is quite sufficient for it to be a full-blown Amontillado, yet it retains a great deal of Manzanilla characteristics. The grapes come from the Pago Miraflores. Highly recommended!
Expect to pay over £20 (50cl) but expect to be amazed! UK agents Fields, Morris & Verdin.

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